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What is it about climbing (or swimming, running, biking, playing outside) as much as I can all day every day? 

Rest days are so few and far between.  My biceps ache, my shoulders hunch slightly every morning and my hands tingle when I sleep.  

I struggle to open a beer can!! 

Leading the Traverse Pitch on Moonlight

I was inspired by a friend, Dave, back in Estes Park, to attempt some link-ups in Zion.  Male climbers have been doing some rad link-ups in the park since the early 90’s (as far as my research has taken me).  

Recently, some free climbing hard asses have been getting after it.  Tommy and Alex free climbed Touchstone, Moonlight, Sheer Lunacy, and Spaceshot in ~ 16 hours!!!!  Unfortunately, I am a normal human with a fitness level that is not there...yet...maybe one day.  I would like to mess around on Touchstone and Spaceshot's 5.13 pitches, and I have recently had a free climbing mission on Moonlight that went surprisingly well.  

   

Adam Baxter and I sweating it out. 

Before arriving in Zion, I had another great weekend in Indian Creek.  I climbed both Saturday and Sunday at the Fin and Broken Tooth, respectively.  Saturday climbs include The Last Day, Double Trouble, and Court Summons.  One of the KMAC family boys, Adam Baxter met me there, along with old aquaintences and new friends.  Sunday, Adam and I ran a warm 17 miles in Canyonlands, a loopity loop lollypop around the Confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers.  Apres, I headed up to the Broken Tooth for 4 quick laps on the amazing splitters.  

Sunday evening the crew headed back to Durango.  Monday, I regrouped, rested a little and then got a great tour of the local bouldering scene.  Pretty stellar bouldering in Durango.  

Tuesday I was off!!  A sandstormy drive from Durango to Zion culminated with a gorgeous foggy tunnel exit.  Zion's upper peaks were blanketed in snow.  Wednesday was our first day of climbing and the gaggle of us decided sport wanking in St. George was the best option for the moist cold day.

Shunes Buttress

Thursday, Baster and I sussed out some pitches and descents for our Friday link-up of Spaceshot and Moonlight.    It was a busy day on the walls.  We climbed Spaceshot first, did the usual rappels and then scurried over to Touchstone.  A procession of parties were on the route.  We quickly did a 180 and headed over to Moonlight Buttress instead…almost equally as crowded but easier stances to pass.  

A few days ago some friends, Mary and Chris, and I headed up for a free-climb jaunt on Moonlight.  It went pretty well over all for all.  A few falls for me but not more than a handful.  I will return!!

Baxter left and Buster arrived.  Buster (another Kmac'er) and I sussed out the first 4 pitches on Touchstone.  Then we ran over to Spaceshot, we soloed up the  first 3 pitches to have a better look.  Two days ago, Buster and I returned to Moonlight to give it a full lap.  Chris and Mary also returned on their quest to free climb, both getting really really close!  

Buster and I finished the route in 4:07…Buster’s first time!  Yesterday was a full attempt at Touchstone, we completed it in 3:21!  Super stoked!

Moonlight!

Tips to Hips

Lobotomy

On the road. 
One new adorable nephew, Henry.  Congrats to my brother and sister-in-law.  
One lost wallet scare...luckily just called the restaurant in Sedona where I left it.   
One snowy bivy near Flagstaff and 
Tons of amazing company and adventures packed into this week already!!!

I left the front range April 2nd with Randy the Forester,  packed for 2 months of adventure.  First stop, Indian Creek in a snowy push.  Great friends, some unexpectedly, were in the area.  I spent one joyous day elbow deep in the beautiful sandstone.  Our posse took over the Cliffs of Insanity.  I warmed up on MC's Hammer, followed by a quick and lovely lap on an unnamed 5.11 just to the left.  I googled at Broken Brain as Clay and I clumsily meandered our way to his climb of choice, Lobotomy.  

Clay digging deep!

So proud!!!  


He styled the lengthy off-width section quickly.  The 150 foot splitter quickly diminishes near the finish to fingers.  I top roped this climb, working on both my double fisting technique and a good grunt.  


My plan was to then attempt Broken Brain.  The first half of the climb starts as a not-easy finger crack before getting into a series of hand cracks through pods.  This puts you at the base of an awesome head wall, and one of the steepest splitters at the Creek. Go from good hands, to thin hands, to ring locks, to hard finger stacks, all a bit offset!!  I was exhausted from Lobotomy and honestly thankful that we didn't have the necessary 70 meter available.  Lazily, I hopped on another short unnamed 5.11, finishing just as the sun began its habitual bedtime ritual...tucking behind the North Six Shooter.  Returning this weekend to give it more than just a good look!  

The Pond, running for once!  

We all hiked out in darkness, lounged on the tailgate sipping the beer we had buried in the cool earth.  A quick bite and I was off to Durango.  

Chris with a big smile and blue duffel bag piled into Randy Friday afternoon.  We landed at my parents house in East Mesa shortly after sunset.  Saturday I woke early, excited to hit one of my favorite 4 mile runs.  This run has become a "gage of fitness" trail run for me over the years.  Surprisingly, I ran a personal best!!!

Afterward, we escaped the valley heat by climbing in Queens Creek at the Pond area.  Shade chasing was the name of the game at this sporty volcanic climbing area.  We climbed many pitches of 5.10, a few 5.11's and I hopped on a Desert Devil a 5.13a.  This climb is super steep with good edges and sadly some cemented holds.  I put together the lower moves quickly but was stymied after the 4th bolt or so.  Big move with right hand up then cross to a pocket with your left....not sure if that right hand hold was still there?  Fun to try anyway.  Video shows the moves...http://vimeo.com/35871188
   

Weaver's Needle from Fremont Saddle.  

Sunday, Chris and I adventured into the depths of the Superstition Wilderness area for a solo of Weavers Needle.  The 8 mile hike with about ~2800 total elevation change took us 4 hours CTC.  The class 5 climbing was very mellow, albeit typical Superstition chossy conglomerate.  We on-sighted the bushy approach, did no running and soloed both up and down.    

Anvil Boulders, Sedona

Monday the west was blanketed with bad weather.  We both tinkered away the morning inter-webbing and sipping bailey's and coffee.  As the clouds persisted, we settled on a lovely boulder session at the Anvil Boulders.  We scurried about the unique sandstone boulders, some splitter cracks, intermingling push-ups between problems.
In the afternoon I went on two rainy runs.  

Soloing Anvil Rocks

The first run followed a great single track trail for 5 miles around Courthouse Butte, outside the Village of Oak Creek.  The second run, feeling like I didn't get enough in, took me on a short loop and summit of Sugarloaf in West Sedona.  This town has some amazing trail systems I could get lost in!!! 

Wednesday the clouds finally broke and the sandstone was dry.  Through much discussion we settled on climbing the Mace.  A great choice!  Moderate climbing and fantastic summit.  The 3 dimensional chimney/off-width on the 4th pitch was really enjoyable!!  

Thursday we were back in Durango for a little work.  Breakfast was a 2000 meter swim, lunch was a fantastic yoga class on main street, and happy hour was climbing at East Animas,  6 pitches (and jugging two more).  

Mileage

I have been joking with friends that this year will be a good running year!  Last year was awesome, many 5k's and a relay marathon!  I just want to get back to my roots....running and soloing....and I hope to find the time to do so!  

First Flatiron

In Costa Rica I ran most every morning for 20-40 minutes, mainly to balance the rum intake.  I did do some hill work-outs or sprints on the beach.  I also was doing a couple of hours of yoga, surfing, and biking around the quaint town of Nosara.  

Sprint's include a 100m at max speed with 100m jogging recovery x 8.  Depending on how frisky I fell, I repeat two or three times.  I am usually at the track or some dirt trail while I am on the road.  What inspired the track work-outs....?
"How can you expect to run fast if you never run fast?"  Kevin Soviak (friend and Estes Park Track Coach)

At the Yoga Teacher Training in Baja, I alternated between bouldering on the beach with running at our lunch break.  Again mixing 45 minute runs with quicker tempo runs at about 20-25 minutes.  

During the last week of training, we had a little siesta from our 'usual' routine.  Saturday was an "off"

day, intended for a Vision Quest--or personal discovery time.  The intention was to find a quite mind, meditate, and be with yourself.  Rather than choosing to find "privacy" on the beach or the nearby mountain with 26 other yoga teachers-in-training who would also be doing the same activity--- Annie and I decided we would wake up with the sun and run to the nearest town, Todos Santos.  
We thought Todos Santos was about 10 miles away.  Turns out that was the town of El Pescadero, Todos Santos was actually another 8.2 miles further north.  
Our anticipation was about 4 hours of running time--2 out, 2 back.  Upon reaching Pescadero we had a brief conversation of continuing or turning around.  If we were to really continue to Todos Santos, we would surely hitchhike back--as we needed to be back to our Yoga home by 2pm.  

Run/solo day--Blitzen Ridge, RMNP

We ran on, what turned out to be roughly 27km, arriving in Todos Santos about 2 and half hours after our start.  Here we hydrated, wandered about town a little, and then stuck out our thumbs for a ride back!  Wonderful to discover I could still run a fair distance "off the couch."  

Since, being home in Estes Park, I have gone on one 14 miler, and a couple 6-10 mile runs.  Usually alternating between running and swimming 3-4 times a week.

This last week the first flatiron in Boulder was in great condition.  I had an afternoon free, so I did a couple of laps.  I walked/jogged the trail up in 15 minutes (lazy in the mud, next time run the whole time up.)  I soloed the first lap in 22 minutes.  The trail down was still somewhat of an ice luge, so the decent took a little bit of time.  Overall, I did 2 laps in ~ and hour and a half.  Not bad, I hope to work the time down but a car-to-car time is tough as I usually like to do more than just one lap on the first.   

See you out on the muddy trails!

Paradox Sports

Twenty-three and a half hours!  I think that is when all three of us finally stood atop El Capitan.  It was October 3rd, 2012, another bluebird California fall day preceding a warm star filled evening.  The last time I had climbed The Nose it was June 9, 2012...Jes and I climbed our fastest NIAD time.  This, ironically, was my slowest NIAD time, barely squeaking it under a day!

In June, Jes Meiris and I were climbing for speed.  This Octobers adventure was a fundraiser for Paradox Sports-- based out of Boulder, Colorado.  Paradox strives to create a world where "people of all backgrounds and abilities can pursue a life of excellence through human-powered outdoor sports, regardless of physical disability.  Timmy O'Neill (Paradox Sports Founder),  Mikey Ray (a new climber, but accomplished athlete), and myself.  The three of us climbed, jugged, and laughed our way up The Nose --Timmy even took a business call around Pitch 22-- to raise money for this fantastic non-profit.

This time lapse video was taken by Tim McCanus in the Meadow.  Our headlamps climb through the rising full moon off Dolt Tower thru El Cap Tower, and end doing the King Swing.

Lotus Flower Tower

Running to catch up with Craig, near Watson Lake, YUK.  

"Watson Lake! We will meet you somewhere near Watson Lake.  There is only one road right?"  I inquired with Craig over the phone.  This would be our last communication before whisking him off his bike in the middle of Northern Canada.  From there we were to catch a Beaver plane to Glacier Lake and the Cirque of the Unclimbables.  

The plan hatched a few winters ago.   I was offered a guiding gig in the Phoenix area, and took it.

My parents had moved to Phoenix sometime near the end of my undergraduate education at the University of Minnesota, so I had grown to enjoy Arizona.  My parents live in East Mesa, 5 miles from the Superstition Mountain Wilderness area, nice access to climbing and trail running.

Packing at the grocery in Watson Lake

Winters in Arizona are amazing...back to the story.

I posted on Facebook of my desire to rent a room in Phoenix for the winter, living with the parents was not an option.  Love you mom and dad.   :)

Sure enough, my friend Craig and his lovely wife Rae responded.  I didn't know Craig super well, we climbed together a few times winters ago.  We met via MountainProject.com, as I was looking for partners.  Since, we stayed loosely in touch.

Rae and Craig

Upon moving to their home in early December of 2010, Rae mentioned that Craig was not actually home.  Fortuneatly, they both had taken an "early, early, really early retirement."  Rae decided to pursue her Ph.D and Craig played outside!

Craig, though, had been scheming a bike trip from Florida to Alaska and hoped to round up some peeps to climb the Lotus Flower Tower along the way.  Along the way!!!!
Therefore, Craig was in Seattle doing some contract work with his former employer Intel to help fund the adventure.
(Craig has done many bike tours throughout the U.S and is an amazing all around athlete, ex-gymnast etc.)

Rae passed all this information on during our first delicious dinner.

Wes enjoying the hot springs

"Well, has he found anyone to go up there with him?" I asked.
"Not yet," she responded with a smile and a twinkle in her eye.

Two weeks later....just in time for the Holiday party they were hosting, Craig arrived home.  I hadn't seen him in almost 3 years.  He exploded with open arms, a fantastic humor, and even haggled his new roommate to participate in a pull-up contest.

By March, Craig had decisively gotten the ball rolling.  He contacted Warren of Kluane Airways, had made our deposit...we were headed to the Cirque of the Unclimbables!!

End of April 2011, I departed for summer in my beloved Estes Park and Craig departed for Florida to begin his bike ride.

Sometime near the end of May, Craig made it to Colorado.  We did a slide show to promote his cross-country bike adventure and our Canadian one to come.  We also climbed a little...sadly too early for the Diamond.
I also joined Craig for a little bit of the bike on 287, finishing just north of Larimer, Wyoming.

Glacier Lake

July 14, 2011.  Driving through Northern Canada and tracking Craig..... trying to think like a guy who had been biking for months.

We stopped to soak at the Liard River Hot Springs, hoping to run into Craig.  We were a half day drive from Watson Lake...turns out we were just hours behind him from the hot springs.  We ran into him later that day, Craig was stopped at a little cafe eating a second breakfast...I spotted his bike along side the road.  We lightened his load as he continued the ride to Watson Lake.  From there we purchased food, loaded our packs, and headed all together down 300k of dirt road to Finlayson Lake.

One trip, shit ton of gear.

A 20 minute flight landed us to Warren's place, Inconnu Lodge.  The following day a gorgeous 45 minute flight took us to Glacier Lake, passing by the Vampire Spires.  We landed and promptly began the 6 mile trudge up to Fairy Meadows, home of the Lotus Flower Tower!


We climbed, we laughed, we bouldered, we sport climbed new and old routes (some put up by a Korean team), and played may games of Trivial Pursuit.  After 3 weeks, 16 days of them rainy....we hiked out on the most bluebird day of them all.

Giovanni bouldering around camp.  

The Penguin.  Fabulous and picturesque!

Head wall, heading up!

Headwall!  Heading down!

View down the headwall to bivy site, Korean team taking over!

Camp

We returned to Watson Lake.  Craig hopped back on his back and continued to Alaska, Denali was his final destination.  I returned to Colorado the slow way, climbing Liberty Bell and others along the way home.  My lovely friend Giovanni returned to Colombia!  What a great trip with wonderful people!

Thanks Craig for dreaming big!

The Posse!!!  (aka the Estonians) Quinn, Wes, Giovanni, and Craig

The day we hiked out!  Beautiful!

Return of the scheduled chaos

Splitter hand crack---for 15 feet only!

Man.  I wrote a little diddy on the plane ride home and somehow managed to delete it.  Ops.

I will update quick.....
I have been back to Colorado for 120 hours
Of those hours I have
Worked 53
Slept 37
Run 3
Swam 1
Climbed 5
Yoga 4
That leaves 17 hours of unaccounted for time.  WTF I have been doing with myself??????

My home for 18 days

Grounded

One month off and I come back to a ton of work.  Two restaurants, guiding trips for Kent Mountain Adventure Center, finding time to volunteer for Paradox Sports, and planning and promoting Dovetail retreats!  A little hectic, but also wonderful as I will be off climbing both April and May.  This also means the "Corpse Pose" time of my life is over.  Training time begins!
Yesterday I climbed at Movement and discovered my endurance is, well, um, what is endurance again?

I excited for my upcoming adventures this spring and summer!  I am super  inspired by my fellow Trango Athletes latest adventure, Amy and Myles, http://roamingbanditos.blogspot.com/2013/01/plate-tectonics-vi-512-c1-east-face-of.html!  So rad!!
Can't wait to train, climb outside, teach some yoga, visit the desert, the big ditch and Greenland!!!

More on my adventures and training soon......

Shavasana

It is a new year, time for new goals.

Last year at this time, I had committed to climbing the Nose with careful preparation as days turned from January to late May.  I began slowly with my training regimen -- easing on the ice cream, alcohol, and exercising too.  If you know me, you know that I am sort of non-stop.  This was an endurance training, so non-stop was great, but I didn't want to wear too quickly.


After the Nose in June, I cancelled a massage appointment and to this day haven't made time to reschedule....





It has been an awesome year, but I have realized that I need to rest.  I want to have another rad year!!!
A little nap in the midst of the already full year of events-- 2013 has a full schedule of trips, expeditions, retreats, training and more training, work, growth, and hopefully laughter and health.

I have athletic ambitions, as well as, work commitments.  Dovetail Mountain will take another leap....for the best I can only hope!!!

To start this year, I have moved to the beach for a month of yoga, surfing, running, napping, and handstands.   I felt strong before I left Colorado--forearms full of endurance--- but the earth was also full of freezing cold temperatures.  Rock climbing season was in hibernation.


This is my mini-hibernation.

I do worry about loosing my endurance or mental strength, but am also aware of this much needed break.  It is a new year.  Time for new beginning.

Re-set, let go, start from a base that is even better than the year past.

Looking, standing, breathing again!