100th Aniversary

This September was Rocky Mountain National Park's 100th anniversary. Being an obscure goal setter to keep myself interested, busy, whatever you call it, I decided to climb 100 alpine pitches in the park.

Ariana  PHOTO: Max Barlerin

At first I was trying for as many different formations in the park as possible.  This objective was going well, but saying no to the Diamond is like saying no to red wine and chocolate. You just feel better giving in.
Hallets peak is similar. It's a wonderful solo. Its a wonderful half-day climb. It's groovy to climb three times in a work day. ;).

I digress.

I counted 109 pitches. I counted the North Chimney as one pitch, as we simul-climb or solo. Having climbed it four times = four pitches.  My dearest margarita loving friend suggested a kindly correction.  If I am to count pitches, I should be counting them as per the guidebook.
So I need a recount.  The number is higher.

Either way. I achieved my obscure summer goal.  I climbed on formations that I hadn't climbed on previously. Like Chiefshead.
WTF.  Max rallied. I worked a rescue until 10 pm the day previously. 60% chance of showers and many alpine days throughout the week had me tired.
Sorry, I blacked out.  Did I just tell you I was tired.

Geronimo--PHOTO:Max Barlerin

I was hesitant. Definitely just hesitant. Bed seemed nice. 4am came quickly.
Max made coffee. He dragged my ass out of bed, tucked me into the truck, nearly pushed the yogurt into my mouth at the trailhead.

Okay maybe not that bad.

We started hiking. Clouds swirled slowly. Non-threatening poofs spooning the granite spires. Lovers not ready to part with dawns first rays.  We passed Spearhead with a minor glance. Max was on a mission for a new line on the northeast face if Chiefshead. As we neared the cliff, the lines still looked good.  Blue sky poked her head out just enough to support a mission upwards. Off we set!!  A ballsy 5.12 pitch off the deck, eventually led into some lovely 5.11 corners and cracks with 2 sections of low fifth class linking dihedrals.  We topped out just after noon and descended quickly. During our lunch break, I began my push for another climb on the Spearhead. As we packed up and meandered. Water droplets released from above. Persistent annoying mist, not a downpour. Bummer.

Arrowhead. double WTF.


I had never climbed on it. Saving it?  Blowing it!  Adam Baxter and I climbed Birds of Fire on the Northwest face of Chiefshead the day prior, bivied and rallied for day two in Arrowhead.  Arrowplane. SickbiRd.

The list.
Casual route
Black dagger
Pervertical
Ariana
The Beaver and Staircase
The North Face
Keyhole ridge
The SW- Saber
Dalke- Cathdral wall
South buttress direct- Notchtop
Spiral route - Notchtop
Great Dihedral -First buttress of Hallets.
Culp-Bullsier  - Secomd buttress Hallets
Better than Love - Secomd buttress Hallets
Culp-Bossier with variation start - Secomd buttress Hallets
Flying Buttress - Meeker
Directisma - Chasm View Wall
Geronimo - Northeast face of Chiefshead
Birds of Fire - Northwest face of Chiefshead
Arrowplane - Arrowhead

#amazeballs.

Arrowplane..Arrowhead

Touch of Green on Birds of Fire

Home Sweet Home

Top of the Park

Good Morning from the Cirque

Baxter getting into the Black Dagger

Goofin off on Table Ledge

New Route, No Problem.  Max on Geronimo!

Keyhole Ridge, Longs Peak

Notchtop and her goods

Rizzo enjoying the view from Notchtops Summit

Clean teeth-- Clean climbing!

Ariana winks.  

Precisely etched corners refract the dawns early rays.  The orange, no, the pinkish-red glow of triangular granite looms overhead.  An evolving electric blue sky hugs from behind.  A gurgling pitter patter of fresh snow melt slips its way through lime green tufts.  
Color and energy abound.  

The Diamond lives up to its namesake this July morning.  

Brilliant

We approach quietly, soaking in the scene.  Long's Peak and its East Face stand proudly at 14,000 feet. 

14k Diamond.  

Two parties are tucked in a boulder bivy on the west side of Chasm Lake. They are friends of ours from Durango.  Just six of us hoping to claw upward through dreamy granite splitters.  Lucky to be with friends, lucky there wasn't more.    

Alluring

The North Chimney is no joke.  The Diamond's proximity to the Front Range, a handful of 'moderate' climbs such as Pervertical and the Casual Route, combined with the proliferation of climbing in Colorado---eh, the world -- makes it a crowded alpine 'crag' some days. The Diamond has become a popular first alpine climb.  Sadly, delicate grace and mountain humbleness has not yet been cultivated. 

Pernicious

Loose blocks tumble, grazing by heads and ropes---if your lucky!  Death and serious injury do occur.    

Stomping our way up steep snow, a wet cross over onto a rock apron finds us shoed-up and tied-in.  Jens sets sail up the North Chimney in one long pitch.  We dance the fine line of casual-moderate-terrain-effortless-cruising and wheels-off-the-wagon-loose-rocks-shit-could-hit-the-fan.

Unscathed, we sashay across the massive Broadway ledge.  

Jens following the golden crux pitch

Ariana teases.   

I begin to ascend the perfect dihedral's-- stretching to the ropes end.  My lead felt fluid, but my head was already spinning in anticipation.  

Thoughts refract.  

On-sight? Failure? Motivation? Ability? 

Jens arrival to the ledge snaps me from the day dream.  Gear is exchanged and he dances upward. 

Another moderate pitch sets us at the base of Ariana's goods.  A golden pillar sliced with a shallow finger crack.  I didn't pause, I am not even sure I made eye-contact with Jens. 

I played through.    

Timid at first, cautious of rejection.  Ariana's finicky nature precedes her.  

My breathing is labored.  Chasm lake glimmers and tiny boulders 2000 feet below edge my peripheral.  I place a wire, with a firm yank it holds fast.  

I shrug, still uncertain.  

Feet--feet-- stay on your feet.  

I step left precariously than upward, placing a small cam.  

Bah 

A grunt escapes as I delicately jam upwards.  Blood pulses into my forearms.  Ariana holds steady, providing thin finger locks and meek shallow hand jams  These provide temporary relief, calming my breath while balancing on tiny edges.  I miraculously find tiny stances and continue ascending.    

AhaHHHH 

Many more loud grunts echo through the Chasm cirque.  Exhausted, I throw myself through the final moves to the anchor.  

HOLY SHIT!!!  I exclaimed or thought or whispered.  

Jens follows gracefully, with a toothy smile and a giant exhale he arrives ready to tackle the final pitch.  Another full value brilliant hand and finger crack with a slabby crimp finish. 

Soon I am moving upwards.  While not as pumpy as the crux pitch, there is no backseat during this 140 foot pitch.   

With a glance at the time and a quick conversation of up or down...we couldn't resist.  

UP, one more at least!! 

I jetted up the last 5.9 pitch to Table Ledge.  With an ever important dentist appointment at 3pm--we thread the ropes and worked our way back to Broadway and the once far far away scree field.  Chasm lake still shimmering but the Diamond much darker.  

Her brilliance exhausted for the day-- Ariana let two cruise by first try!!   

What a day!!!            What a dream!!!!              What a dentist appointment????

Table Ledge Success, Ops --11:45--Time to Jet!  

The Raptor!

I am not an ice climber....well, I have now gone, liked it, and I will most certainly go again!

My first experience was years ago with an acquaintance.  I wasn't quite sure what he was looking for, but we hiked around a lot up the Lawn Lake Trail.  I never took my tools off the pack, even to this day I have no idea what moderate ice we might have been looking for.  Oh well.

All Mixed Up, Thatchtop Mt., RMNP

My second experience, was this November a few weeks after my whipper in Zion.  My experienced friend was very patient while I gimped up the trail, and even more caring when we stopped at the base of All Mixed Up to gear up and my feet were already frozen.  After attempting to warm them, feed me, hydrate me, dance around, we ended up turning around.

What a sissy!

I am from Minnesota, I used to tolerate the cold so well.  Wow, too many winters chasing eternal fall!

My third experience was just after Thanksgiving and it went swimmingly.  Granted I borrowed warmer, more appropriate, boots.

The three of us, 2 non-experienced ice climbers and a third who had previously climbed at our desired destination, Hidden Falls.  We had a leisurely breakfast, drove to Wild Basin in Rocky Mountain National Park, strapped on the packs, and wandered down the road, now winter trail, west.

Then we wandered down the road east, back tracking.  We wandered a short trail parallel to the road for awhile.  Then we wandered about another pull-out and trail.  Finally, we wandered further west definitively.  Our third, "leader", didn't quite remember how far to wander the road, where Hidden Falls might be hidden, and surely didn't even know what day it was.

All in good fun.  We arrived, just as another pair of climbers was hiking out.

Perfect.  Place to ourselves.

I just top-roped, but messed around with dry-tooling (which I had done before last winter in the Cascades), but I also got to climb a few pitches of just ice.

I was enjoying my new ice tools, and the boys were also enjoying my new ice tools.  The Trango Raptors saw 8-10 pitches on their first day out.  These nice tools have an aggressive pick, are quite light, and have an excellent grip.  I really enjoyed the grip set up, allowing me to switch hands comfortably, gripping above the standard grip location was equally as comfortable and easy.

Get your new pair at http://www.trango.com/ice_gear/Raptor  

20-12's in 2012

Plus one 5.13!

After the June trip to Yosemite I needed an obtainable/fun goal to occupy my mind.

Chris Trimble confused by the summer choices!

What to do?  What to do?

Summer in Estes is filled with too much work, a lot of play, and minimal amounts of sleep.  I rallied friends and co-workers, "let's all try to climb twenty 5.12's in the year 2012!"  Some agreed to the challenge and currently we are all working towards completing the 20.  Adam Sanders, Trango Rep. and climbing madman set this goal in 2011, trying to climb 20 5.12's before 2012 arrived.  I stole his idea! :)

So far, I have climbed 8 sport climbs and one traditional climb.  (It seems I have time for a sport wanking outing about once a week).  My one full day off each week is spent wandering the Rocky Mountains alpine splitters!

The list is ongoing....and I have updated as I have climbed!



So far

1.  Mistrel in the Gallery, 5.12, The Gallery, Red Rocks

Justin Dubois Photo

2.  Blisters in the Sun, 5.12a Queen Creek, Arizona
3.  Days of Future Past- 5.12a, Animal World--Boulder Canyon

4.  Free Fall -5.12a, Avalon--Boulder Canyon

5.  Furious Howard Brown 5.12 a/b, Surprising Crag--Boulder Canyon

6. Threshold of a Dream 5.12-, Animal World--Boulder Canyon

7.  Wet Denim Day Dream 5.12-, Wall of the 90's--Clear Creek (Onsight)

8.  Red Neck Hero 5.12, River Wall---Button Rock Reservoir.  

9. The Wasp 5.13-, Rock of Ages --- Rocky Mountain National Park (3rd try on lead, trad climb)

10. Rise and Shine 5.12-, Bitty Butress -- Boulder Canyon
11.  The Gate Keepr 5.12a, Wizards Gate --- The Crags, RMNP
12. All Too Obvious 5.12, Spearhead---RMNP (onsight) (traditional)
13. Medicine Man 5.12b, Colorado National Monument (onsight) (traditional)
14.  Jolt Cola 5.12a, Blob Rock, Boulder Canyon
15.  Aoxamoxoa, 5.12b, The Bank, Shelf Road
16. Pick Pocket 5.12a, Cactus Cliff, Shelf Road
17. Blade Runner 5.12a, Cactus Cliff, Shelf Road

My most exciting lead to date, The Wasp, occurred Wednesday July something or other.  Tuesday, I hiked out with Bronson to top rope and suss out some gear.  Previously, I had one top-rope lap on The Wasp this summer in late June.  I also have had some miserable burns on it a few summers back.  This June was the first time I top-roped it with no falls and no extreme pump.  I had to work at noon, so although I felt strong and was tempted for a lead go, I didn't have time.

Wednesday, my girlfriend Kelly Cramer, returned with me.  Through a small debate on the hike up, WE decided that there would be no more top-roping.  I would walk up to the climb and lead the darn thing.  I fell entering the crux traverse.  BOO.  I was fully pumped.

I rested for a while, then tried again.  Feeling solid I reached the "jug" at the end of the traverse left, but had placed a piece in the way.  I shuffled around trying to jam my hand under the cam, but in my flurry ended up just grabbing it.  Double BOO.  I definitely hollered a few F-Bombs.  Irritated at my lack of mental control!!!!

 I was also worried I wouldn't have the energy for another full effort.  I rested 20 minutes or so, then headed up for the 3rd time.  Through the traverse, I placed the cam in a better location, moved through, and stood up for a rest.  One more reachy move puts you on a "smile-evoking-foot-holds-surprise-hand-rail-of-joy"traverse right.  I placed another piece but was short a runner.  I clipped it directly and began climbing upwards towards the piton.

The Wasp, Photo taken from Mountain Project

WHEN DID THE SMALL CHILD JUMP ON MY BACK, I thought?  I just sand-bagged myself with an extreme lightening zag of rope drag.  I thought about down-climbing and taking the piece out but thought I would waste to much energy.  In hindsight, I wasted just as much energy climbing upwards with the rope drag, Elvis clipping and such.  Even with the little extra epic I created for myself, I clipped the piton, moved through the last few crimps to the jug at the lip with just enough energy!  YAHOO!!!!!!!!!

Heel hooking in the Ra's in Boulder Canyon!  

Thanks Kelly and Bronson for hiking out there with me!

Recently, Trango has picked up Tenaya shoes, and have been testing a few.  I have always been partial to climbing with Muira's, but am finding Tenaya's Ra to be quite comparable.  Great rubber, stiff and comfortable.  The Masai's are a less aggressive shoe that I am climbing in a size bigger than usual, but am loving them for long days.  They still have a great toe box and edge, but more flexibility.  My Off-width shoes of choice!!

Give these shoes a try!!!

Balance and exercise

Last entry spoke of traveling and Trango.

I am having some anguish over aging and living at sea level the last 6 months.  Mainly, I am frustrated with my fitness, sea-level living, and lack of a training routine the last few months.  

My 2012 so far.......
January 20th - moved to North Cascades Institute for a 4 week Wilderness EMT/EMT-B course.
February 18th- 1pm completed course and tests, drove to Seattle, packed and arrived at airport
                         at 10pm for flight to Phoenix.
February 19- March 16- Climbing and adventuring in Phoenix, New Mexico, Nevada, Utah, and  
                      Colorado.  Driving with Prairie.  She dropped me off in Boulder on the 16th. 
March 18th- Back on the road with 8 seventh graders for a week long canyon trip in Utah.
March 24th- Returned from Utah, de-geared, re-packed for personal flight out.
March 26th- Flight to Seattle
March 28th- M.A.P.L.E (our sprinter van) packed up and headed East, Wes and I together after a
                     month apart.
March 29-30- Driving to Estes Park, Colorado.  Home.  Brief stop in Spokane to visit friends.
April 1st - Work at Ed's 6:30 am, unpack M.A.P.L.E, drive to Denver in the pm. 
April 2nd - In Denver for two days with Wes, he is working in Aurora through mid-May so staying
                   with him and training.

Wetsuitless at an exercise competition. 

This while also scheduling and planning a Yoga-Rock Climbing retreat for my company Dovetail Mountain Adventures.  Writing this helps me realize why I am lagging.
Well, I am home for awhile....2 months anyway, and need to really get on the training.  Yosemite in June!  

Photo Dan Gambino.  March bouldering in RMNP

Training.  What a fun time.  Seriously.  There is a wonderful line in "Eastbound and Down."  Ex-Pro football player turned small town gym teacher comments to his triathlon obsessed principle, "I am not trying to be the best at exercising, I play real sports!"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=De7rbB2bteE

I chuckle.  Wes uses this line on me all the time. 

My new years resolution for 2011 was to climb The Nose of El Cap in a day and place top 5 in my age group in a triathlon---in the same month.  I have placed before in triathlons, I just struggle with focusing on them solely.  I love climbing!
I wait tables and guide for a living, which means unless I am sleeping I am on my feet.  Swimming, biking, running, hiking, climbing, and working on my feet = really tired legs.   

I did not achieve that goal last year, partner changes and an adventure to the Cirque of the Unclimbable's stirred the pot.  

Wes and I on Lotus Flower Tower

This year, though, I have reminded myself of this lofty, obscure, and self-proclaimed goal.  Since I am training to climb the Nose in a day, what a better way to cross train then do high intensity activities such as swimming, biking, and running!

I hope to succeed at one or both this summer.  The logistics of the Nose, climbing 5.11 run-out or french-freeing fast is a certain challenge.   It is April, the trying hard and training harder has only just begun. 

Since January, I have been doing 50 push-ups or dips, 150 sit-ups a day, along with stretching and yoga daily.  Running and climbing happened in spurts during my EMT course.  Since February,  I have been climbing more, doing sprints at the track again, swimming, and hope to start biking now that I am in one place.  

The southwest road trip helped get me into long climbing days, but not as high intensity as I would like.  Jes Meiris (my Nose partner this June) and I have a goal of moving for 8 hours of activity.  I need to up my heart rate for longer.  Waiting tables keeps me moving for 12 hours, but again not intense enough.

Jes climbing at Shelf Road

Enough with the computer, exercising awaits.

Self-Promotion

Blogging.  I have had a few lame attempts.  I am good at keeping a journal, but blogging?
It is time again to try.
I did great with our expedition blog, until the expedition was over.  Craig was really good about writing, so I kind of just let him run the show.
This?
This blog is mine.  No one to relinquish my laziness too.
Personal blog= Self Promotion.  Self Promotion= Less time actually playing and more time talking about playing.
I have my concerns with self promotion. 

As my good friend Karl (pictured) once said, "Enough about me talking about me, let's hear what you have to say about me."

I am not the greatest writer nor am I sold on the idea that other people might have an interest in reading about Quinn Lenae Brett.  Yet, I have some personal goals that I would like to accomplish and I think a blog would help.

58 Degree water.  No wetsuit!

One of those goals is climbing related.  I am trying to climb harder these days, more importantly, get my name out there.  Since I don't live in Boulder, have yet to go to the ever important 'Trade Show' in Salt Lake City, nor do have a 5.13 climbing resume......the process is slow.

Other problems.  I drink more wine and margaritas than I should.  I also am not entirely focused on climbing as a profession, for a few reasons.  One, competing in triathlons and hand-stands contests are equally as interesting.  I am quite good at them too.  WATCH OUT!!!!

Andrew Barnes, Wes and I--Handstand Across the World

B.), I don't have rich parents who are willing to financially support me, nor do I play the lotto.    Last, work is a must.  I tend to LIKE to work also (shh, don't tell anyone).  When my bank account gets to a low number I don't like, I find work to beef it back up to an adequate number.  

This all takes away from the full dirtbag lifestyle of living years on the road climbing to my hearts content.

Oh the sights!

I do, however, climb and enjoy climbing immensely.  It is a physical and mental challenge unlike any other.  I have traveled to cool places, met some fabulous people and seen vistas I otherwise would never see.  See below. 

Onto the self-promotion part.  I have a few 5.12 climbs under my belt.  I may hold a few female run/solo records in RMNP.  That is if a female record is different than a males records, if not, I am pretty darn happy with my personal records on certain ridges and solo's in the park.

Enough of that.  Time for bed.