"Oh, you want to hear something with beats?" Bill Wright says to me as he fiddles with the car stereo. Four twenty seven on Sunday, June 10th, Jes and I were carpooling all of 500 yards---from the Manure Pile pull out to El Capitan Meadow with Bill Wright and Hans Florine. After climbing the Nose and descending the East Ledges we new we would be pretty excited to have an extra car stashed --shortening our hike.
Roughly 10 hours and 19 minutes later, "I got the moves like Jagger" floated-- fully orchestrated-- back into my head as I clipped up the bolt ladder on the last pitch of the Nose. "Yes, yes I do" I thought, as I stomped on a bolt for a foot hold. Aid climbing!!
Jes reached the top anchors minutes after me. Simultaneous with her finish and clicking stop on the timer, she was handed a Murphy's Stout. Strange order of events.
Swollen Fingers
Instead of yelling on and off belay, we often yell this phrase.
Piton Pete, a valley legend, cracked and passed one in our direction. He, his partner, and another gal from Joshua tree (whose 2 partners were still down below) were all at the last anchor of the Nose. The giant gong show included but was not limited to; 2 strewn single portaledges--both fully inflated, 5 ropes all in full use, wafts and visuals of well traveled poop bags, and a lottery winnings worth of climbing hardware. It was like a where's waldo game of climbing paraphernalia.
Tom Evans Photo, Quinn leading above Eagle Ledge
Aside from the over populated top pitch, the climbing day went pretty much without a hitch. I started climbing slowly, reaching the top of the first pitch in 18 minutes. I gradually increased my pace, finding a nice solid rhythm and reached Dolt Tower (top of Pitch 11) in 2 hours 40 minutes. Jes and I switched leads here. She took off up to El Cap Tower. We simul-climbed up through the bolt ladder and the Boot Flake. A party of 3 young men from Michigan let us pass, seeing us coming from a few pitches off. Thanks boys!
Jes stuck the King Swing first try, pulled me over with our short tag line and I took over the lead again off of Eagle Ledge. The last time we were here on a practice run Piton Pete was living on Eagle Ledge. We had to crawl through his nest after the King Swing. He even offered and made Jes coffee!
Eagle Ledge on first go around, Jes finishing the King Swing
At Camp 4, Jes and I swapped leads once more. She approached the Great Roof quickly, as well as another party of two.
These gentleman were awesome, full of enthusiasm given their previous epic evening. They didn't sleep much, having to work well into the night trying to free their haul bag, it snagged somewhere along the grey bands. Dave, from Colorado, was hollering with excitement the whole time Jes and I approached and passed! Thanks guys!
From there Jes and I just kept plugging and chugging. Somewhere around Camp V I realized that if we were off in less than 3 hours we would break the record. Somehow we had cut 4 hours off our previous attempt and were still feeling strong.
Last pitch madness.
"Lets GO!" I hollered at Jes, "we can do this!" We traded leads for one last time at the base of pitch 27. I free climbed the bottom section of the Changing Corners, short-cut up the bolt ladder and crack jummared my way up to the last pitch.
I arrived to find the other 2 Joshua Tree girls (Bernadette, Mitzi, and Beth are their names), at the anchor starting the last pitch. "Do you mind if we pass?" I gasped. Jes and I had passed the girls on Sickle Ledge days before on our first run on Wednesday and they were quite friendly. This time I was met with a few F-bombs--- directed mostly at their predicament, not entirely me.
Meadow
The Nose essentially follows the sun/shade line
Apparently, the girls had been chilling at 'the wild stance' for 2 hours, waiting for Piton Pete and his cluster to get out of the way. I explained that we were really close to breaking the record, I wouldn't be a bother...its a bolt ladder easy to work around, and I don't leave anything behind really anyway. I looked at my watch to make sure it was worth it. It was 3:09, we started climbing at 5:22. We were close. We chatted for a few more minutes, waited for their leader to get a little further along, and then I made my moves, like Jagger.
On Wednesday of this week, Jes and I had a formal go at climbing the Nose in a day (NIAD). I don't know how to count apparently, thinking we had done it in just over 13 hours. Turns out it was 14:30. An awesome feat I should not forget to send a little joy towards. Not too shabby for our first go, although it is easy to immediately think about how we need to drop about 4 hours from that time. I am not sure where we can trim that great of an amount of time!!!!
Jes under the great roof
Headed up the stove legs; pitches 7-11
I am nervous and exhausted. My quad's hurt like a motherF*&%#er and my body is tired. I want to crush this thing, but I am overwhelmed with dropping nearly 1/3 of our time. YIKES. We will give it another rip on Sunday or Monday. Jes is down with a third go perhaps Wednesday, but I just don't know if I have it in me.
I feel like I need a break from the route. Is that bad? I am not used to projecting something so intensely. Climbing has always been about a new adventure every day, I guess I need to flip my perspective. I can still have a new adventure on this now very rehearsed rock climb.
Oh did I mention its ladies day climbing? Sundresses please!
I bit my lips, hoping for enough time to climb Half Dome next week. I know I can return to Yosemite in October for another attempt on The Nose. Perhaps it is the fatigue talking.
Yesterday we hiked down from El Captain on the Yosemite falls trail, instead of the usual East Ledges. We met a solo climber, Francis, at the top and helped to carry his load out. Francis, spent 8 days on the wall climbing a route called "New Dawn."
Jes' two friends, Emily and Colin met us at the top with shoes, water, and sleeping bags. Amazing!!!!! Thanks a billion to those two.
After the hike out, Prairie, some other valley friends, and I floated the Merced river. The icy river felt lovely on my sore body. We also had a massive tear in our floaty, creating a mandatory swim finish.
Casual Friday climb up Serenity Cr
Today Prairie, Trevor, and I climbed 3 pitches up on Serenity Crack. I felt pretty pooped. Attempting to sit still this evening and all of tomorrow.
I find I am impatient with rest days, temptations of sun shining, fantastic company, and splitter routes. Alas, I attempt to stay focused and healthy for another solid go.
In other news, Wes flew to Patagonia today for work. I got to skype with him while he waited in the Santiago Airport. It will be a few months before we get to spend time together. I miss his face and while he is supportive of this endeavor it would be even better if he were here by my side.
"The Nose is one of the original technical climbing routes up El Capitan. Once considered impossible to climb,[1] El Capitan is now the standard for big-wall climbing. It is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and considered a classic around the world.[2]
"El Cap" has two main faces, the Southwest (on the left when looking directly at the wall) and the Southeast. Between the two faces juts a massive prow. While today there are numerous established routes on both faces, the most popular and historically famous route isThe Nose, which follows the massive prow."
A note to non-climbers.
If you are not familiar with El Cap, here's some info that may help put it into perspective. El Capitan is a huge granite wall in Yosemite Valley, 3000 ft tall, and it takes an average team of climbers about 4 days to ascend. Climbing it in 'fast and light' style (in a day or less), requires less gear and logistics, and is becoming more and more popular- as are speed climbing records! However, it also takes a completely different skill set and usually a lot of training. Our intended route, The Nose, is 31 pitches (~31--100 foot rope lengths) and is the most popular big wall climb in the world. Breaking a speed climbing record on a wall like this is akin to competing at Ironman Hawaii or the Tour de France.
Map of the Nose, in part....its over 30 pitches
My partner in climb, Jes Meires and I have about 2 weeks in Yosemite Valley to rehearse and attempt this feat. (A link to Tom Evans webpage with daily reports on the happenings is belos.... scroll through a bit and weed out with your eyes until you see mention of "The Nose" Usually mid-way down after Zodiac and Mescalito happenings.)
The Nose is packed right now, regular ol' turnpike of climbers, haul bags, NIAD attempts etc. (NIAD= Nose In A Day).
Tom usually includes photos and a little bit a words about who's climbing and where.
Jes and I ran to the Stovelegs today, fresh out of our 20 hour drive from Colorado. Both of us made it to Sickle ledge (top of Pitch 4) in about 1:30. Need to cut this time to under an hour ...an hour is okay, but under better. (that is 1/10 of the way through time-wise).
Heading into the Stovelegs
I had a mess up with the rope on Pitch 3, and a mess up with the climbing as well. I went left off the anchor instead of right. Ops.
Tomorrow I will fix that problem.
Overall, I felt pretty good. Some spots went really smoothly, like starting pitch 2. Ending pitch 2 I felt a little out of gear and slow. Grabbed my gear back from Jes middle of Pitch 3, after the mess up and began moving more quickly.
Rappelling ~
Jes had a little struggle with wind and following the traverse nearing the top of Pitch 4.
Pitches 5-8 have some pendulums but great free climbing that I think I can move quickly through, pending Jes following with a tagline and lower-outs. Pitch 8-11 will also be mine. A gradually widening hand crack. Should also go fairly quickly, free climbing and crack jummaring. (placing a piece of protection and just pulling on it instead of a naturally granite hold).
I think Jes will take over on pitch 12 through the Great Roof...pending me taking the Boot Flake and King swing for a minute.
I will take over perhaps 22-? Maybe to the top?
We will rehearse the bottom again tomorrow and fix some ropes, intending to jug them and stay to work out the King Swing area thursday, friday and saturday. Friday's forecast is 90 degrees. YIKES! No shade up there! I have been hesitant to write about this endeavor, failure, skills, doubts and all. 10 hours or less is our goal for this climb.
Doubts aside, we are in Yosemite, and committed that our attempt on El Cap stand for something bigger than ourselves. We have partnered with SOS Outreach International, a non-profit based in Avon, CO, that empowers youth through outdoor education and adventure.
To find out more about SOS, visit www.sosoutreach.org. By fundraising for this organization, we are making a difference with youth worldwide, regardless of the outcome of our efforts. In conjunction with that, we are also interested in transforming how rock climbers relate to their objectives.
My last 'kid' trip in March-- Kain Gultch, Utah.
Climbing is an inherently selfish sport, and we hope to inspire others who are pushing the limits of the sport to generate fundraising efforts and make their ascents count towards local or global progression, whether it be social, environmental, or educational. If you have already donated, we send you MANY THANKS! and we hope you follow our journey.
We would love your support in raising money for SOS Outreach. Our website provides an easy way to donate, and allows us to post pictures and stories from our trip to follow if you wish. We will be there from May 29 to June 13, spending lots of time on the wall rehearsing pitches and strategy. On the site there is also an option to donate to us directly to help fund our trip (gas money and LOTS of gear). If you choose to donate to us directly, please consider a matching donation to SOS Outreach.
If it does not work for you to donate money right now, we request that you keep us in your thoughts and send some good climbing juju!
The fundraising campaign will run from now until June 13 when we leave the Valley after our climb. Of course, every dollar helps, but here are some more creative ideas for donating:
- donate $1 for every pitch on The Nose (31)
- pledge to donate a penny, $.50, or $1 for every pitch we climb while in the Valley (estimated at about 150- we'll keep a log!)
- donate x amount for each climbing party we pass while speed climbing (lots)
We cannot thank you enough for your support of this objective!! We are excited and nervous and confident and empowered, and glad to be about to share all of that with the amazing people in our lives. Please pass this on to anyone you know who might be interested. THANK YOU!!
It is 7 days before my big adventure in California. While I look forward to another trip home to Yosemite Valley, I am also slightly anxious.
I know I am fit and can move for 15-20 hours at a time, doubts fill my head. Did I train enough? Am I strong enough? I am even capable of pulling this off?
Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold's recent adventures in Yosemite compounds this doubts, I feel more sheepish and under-prepared. WOW, they are in shape.
I recognize that I am not at their level, not even close. I just love the spirit of their adventure. I admire their fitness, mental strengths, and positive attitude towards it all.
They inspire me to try harder, think more positive, and be nice!
Thanks guys.
Jes Meires and I on stopping for a breather on the first flatiron.
Jes doing a little jugging in Eldo!
I am another Trango athlete who joined the P90X video club during my month long stint at the North Cascades Institute in January during my Wilderness EMT. It was a decent workout given the limited time for training. Also a little nicer then running through sleet. A decent substitute although I do prefer Colorado's sunshine, access and elevation a bit more for training.
West Face of Bastille on Easter!
Since my return to Colorado, I have been fortunate enough to train in multiple climbing locations, with some rad new gear alongside a few of my favorite people. Red Rocks, always a favorite. Zion, I leave unfulfilled every time! Lumpy, second pitch of Whiteman is my new favorite. Eldorado, never not enough. Monument, wildly impressed---Medicine Man is on my list. Unaweep, magnificent canyon but a little dirty---cross between Lumpy and Boulder Canyon. Boulder Canyon, don't climb here enough. .....gear review to follow shortly.
Along the way I have done bazillions of pull-ups, climbed, fallen, and jugged. Yesterday was King Swing "practice" day....I joked all day. justify leaping into a corridor full of jagged rocks! Hey, I jugged the line a few times too!! (funny little video I compiled).
This isn't an exciting post. Its a journal of my work-outs for the month of April, so far. It helps me to keep track, keeping me honest. This, to you, could help motivate. If not, clicking that X in right hand corner of the screen takes you far far away in nanoseconds.
Monday April 2
Swim 1500
100 Sit-ups
100 Push-ups
Tuesday April 3
Swim 2000. 100 swim, 100 kick x 10
Climbed 31 Pitches in the gym. Sets of 3, usually 5.12/11, 5.10, 5.9/8. Sometimes down climbing. Max set was 7 climbs.
Wednesday April 4
Road biked in Estes Park 15 miles
100 push-ups
100 sit-ups
Thursday April 5
Swim 1550- 200 warm-up. Kick 50. 6x50's on the 50. Kick 50. 500 straight. Kick 100. 100x 6 pulling breathing every 3-5-7. Kick 50. 200 Cool-down.
Small bouldering gym session. Laps and hanging stomach curls, stretching too.
Friday April 6
2 mile run up Deer Mountain---didn't feel awesome. Headache and lungs suck.
Quick bouldering session at Nicky's boulders, a hard sloppy traverse. Finger tips are lacking skin. Climbing and swimming are hard on my shoulders and skin!
Saturday April 7
Climbed 5 pitches at Combat rock. I have climbed most of the routes at Combat, either top-rope or leading. Always a good place to get your slab on!
Saigon to Pearl Harbor 5.10d. Back off the second pitch years ago whining to Douglas. Glad to have redeemed myself this day. Fun route all around, a little heady and a lot of foot work.
Nobody Here But Us Chickens 5.11dX Top Roped this little edgy-broken-slabalicious climb. Few small potato thin edges, many now broken. 5.12 slab. No holds essentially. Challenging.
Across Enemy Lines 5.11b. Fun route, also have climbed this before.
Tree Roof 5.8. Super fun end of the day route, I remember when this was a sketchy lead for me.
Sunday April 8
Eldorado Canyon! Sunny and warm, and PAcKED!
West Buttress 5.9+. Great time. Led Pitch 1 and 4. We were a party of 3. Sweaty finger tips is rare for me, but lacking skin and the heat of the day made this finger tips crack start a little heads-up. Off-width pitch was awesome. Many options above but was convinced to stick with the original 5.7 pitch. Wide-ish crack with jugs.
Hair City 5.9R. Challenging start. Heads-up. Last bolt you make a high step and run it out. You can get some random gear in the next 50 feet to the anchor. Great fun on the second half jug.
Monday April 9
Dustin in RMNP
Rest day! Worked from 12-8.
Tuesday April 10
3 mile run out by the YMCA. Felt much better than previous run, lungs have a ways to go still though.
Yoga for an hour.
Wednesday April 11
Worked a low ropes course all day in Denver for KMAC (Kent Mountain Adventure Center).
100 sit-ups
100 push-ups throughout the day
Thursday April 12
Jugging (pronounced with a silent "J") and rock climbing day --
Animal World in the Morning--Boulder Canyon
Animation 5.8, Climbed as a warm-up, then jugged with a backpack on twice.
Joint Venture 5.11a, climbed the first pitch then led up the unknown second pitch. Jugged this also with a backpack on.
Free Willie 5.11-, super fun climbing. Deceivingly steep. Also jugged this after climbing.
Days of Future Passed 5.12-, need to return as I made this a 2 pitch climb. Foot popped reaching out for the crimp. Fun and enjoyable. Boulder canyon is not a place I often climb, it is fun and good for your head at most cliffs. (I would exclude Country Club from this generalization).
Hiking out a slipped on gravel, did the splits and banged my right ankle up pretty nicely.
BRC in the afternoon Dustin and I climbed many routes including a yellow, red, blue, green, and black. Falls were had and forearms were swelling. :)
Friday April 13
Friday the 13th. This excites me.
2 mile sprint with Chelsea around the lumpy short loop. Conveniently on a downhill portion I rolled my right ankle. Lungs are getting there and I felt pretty quick. Finished the run at a slower pace. I know am at the coffee shop gimping around. It hurts quite badly and I work all weekend. I often roll my ankles, but the combo of a nice bone knocker yesterday and a sprain today has me a little worried.
Saturday April 14
Biked to pool. Swim 1500. Can't remember the exact work-out. Rainy outside. Glad to be back in Colorado.
Sunday April 15
Indoor bouldering session. 5 pull-ups, 10 push-ups, 20 sit-ups mixed in with routes on the wall.
Monday April 16
Biked to pool, swim 1800. Warm-up, 12x50 on the :50, 700 straight, Cool down
Movement gym. 15 routes and bouldering sit-ups between routes. Finger tips are wrecked. Triceps feeling it.
Tuesday April 17
Home number 1. Training to go home.
Climbing in Eldo, West Ridge. 5 pitches, kind of a mellow day. Rushed for time. Wes is working in Denver and I wanted to have a "date" night.
Wednesday April 18th
Solo the first flatiron 3 times. Felt good, was trying to go fast enough where breathing was difficult. First lap took me 25 minutes, second 30, third 35. Ankle is still swollen sore, fake run down between laps.
I am having some anguish over aging and living at sea level the last 6 months. Mainly, I am frustrated with my fitness, sea-level living, and lack of a training routine the last few months.
My 2012 so far.......
January 20th - moved to North Cascades Institute for a 4 week Wilderness EMT/EMT-B course.
February 18th- 1pm completed course and tests, drove to Seattle, packed and arrived at airport
at 10pm for flight to Phoenix.
February 19- March 16- Climbing and adventuring in Phoenix, New Mexico, Nevada, Utah, and
Colorado. Driving with Prairie. She dropped me off in Boulder on the 16th.
March 18th- Back on the road with 8 seventh graders for a week long canyon trip in Utah.
March 24th- Returned from Utah, de-geared, re-packed for personal flight out.
March 26th- Flight to Seattle
March 28th- M.A.P.L.E (our sprinter van) packed up and headed East, Wes and I together after a
month apart.
March 29-30- Driving to Estes Park, Colorado. Home. Brief stop in Spokane to visit friends.
April 1st - Work at Ed's 6:30 am, unpack M.A.P.L.E, drive to Denver in the pm.
April 2nd - In Denver for two days with Wes, he is working in Aurora through mid-May so staying
with him and training.
Wetsuitless at an exercise competition.
This while also scheduling and planning a Yoga-Rock Climbing retreat for my company Dovetail Mountain Adventures. Writing this helps me realize why I am lagging.
Well, I am home for awhile....2 months anyway, and need to really get on the training. Yosemite in June!
Photo Dan Gambino. March bouldering in RMNP
Training. What a fun time. Seriously. There is a wonderful line in "Eastbound and Down." Ex-Pro football player turned small town gym teacher comments to his triathlon obsessed principle, "I am not trying to be the best at exercising, I play real sports!" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=De7rbB2bteE
I chuckle. Wes uses this line on me all the time.
My new years resolution for 2011 was to climb The Nose of El Cap in a day and place top 5 in my age group in a triathlon---in the same month. I have placed before in triathlons, I just struggle with focusing on them solely. I love climbing!
I wait tables and guide for a living, which means unless I am sleeping I am on my feet. Swimming, biking, running, hiking, climbing, and working on my feet = really tired legs.
I did not achieve that goal last year, partner changes and an adventure to the Cirque of the Unclimbable's stirred the pot.
Wes and I on Lotus Flower Tower
This year, though, I have reminded myself of this lofty, obscure, and self-proclaimed goal. Since I am training to climb the Nose in a day, what a better way to cross train then do high intensity activities such as swimming, biking, and running!
I hope to succeed at one or both this summer. The logistics of the Nose, climbing 5.11 run-out or french-freeing fast is a certain challenge. It is April, the trying hard and training harder has only just begun.
Since January, I have been doing 50 push-ups or dips, 150 sit-ups a day, along with stretching and yoga daily. Running and climbing happened in spurts during my EMT course. Since February, I have been climbing more, doing sprints at the track again, swimming, and hope to start biking now that I am in one place.
The southwest road trip helped get me into long climbing days, but not as high intensity as I would like. Jes Meiris (my Nose partner this June) and I have a goal of moving for 8 hours of activity. I need to up my heart rate for longer. Waiting tables keeps me moving for 12 hours, but again not intense enough.
Exhausted.
I have just returned from an exhausting 6 day course with eight 7th graders. We explored the canyons of Utah while shivering in our sleeping bags through unexpected snow and 12 degree temperatures. It was awesome. The kids' attitude and willingness to push on was impressive!!
Skyline traverse of the Organ Mountain.
Previous to that, I had a climbing-packed, month long road trip throughout Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada and Utah. Wes and I attempted a traverse of the Organ Mountains near Las Cruces, a long day of many ups and downs. Our planned bivy was awesome, but an unplanned flu for Wes forced us down on day two. The descents of each individual peak (something like 16 in all if completed) were the most time consuming. Overall, a good trip. We replaced a lot of webbing, sussed out the many rappels, etc. We started up Gertch's Folly, the buttress in the left side of the photo, and traversed across about 1/2 way before descending down a horrific cactus ridden gully. Reading summit logs further along the traverse, it seems another party has attempted (unsuccessfully?) from the other direction.
Messing around on an upper pitch of Lonestar!
In Nevada, I spent two weeks in Red Rocks. Highlight climbing was an adventurous route in Black Velvet Canyon--- Texas Hold 'em to Texas Tower Direct, to Lonestar (a different version of "3 of a kind"). All together a 21 pitch day by the book. My partner Luke and I linked and stretched as many pitches as possible, some spicy pitches--some stellar!
From there the road trip was to bring me back home to Colorado. One of my favorite climbing partners, Prairie and I, stopped for a quick morning climb in Zion. Our drive was to take us from Vegas through Zion, Monument Valley and Grand Gulch. I wanted to check out water and road conditions of the canyon I would be guiding.
Prairie and her Elvis climbing attire!
In Zion, Prairie and I climbed the Headache and the Migraine. Wes and I simul-climbed the Headache a few years ago, but it was nice to take my time---enjoy the stellar climbing!
All this climbing talk brings me to some exciting news! I have been climbing my heart out for over a decade and this February I applied to be a Trango athlete. Trango weeded through a bazillion applications of more accomplished and much stronger climbers, and yet chose me to represent them!!!!
I am thrilled to be apart of this Colorado based and thoughtful company. I am over-joyed to share my passion with others, to be recognized as an ambassador for the sport, and to represent Trango!
Dan Gambino Photo
Thank you to everyone at Trango! (www.trango.com)!
