Eternal Fall

Following the first pitch on The Prow

Wow.  I had a busy little October.

Climbed the Nose in a Day again with some friends...."Keeping it casual!"  I was only in the Valley for 3 days.  Man I love that place!

10 days later I found myself giving a slideshow on speed climbing the Nose at Metro Rock in Boston, This even was a fund-raiser for Paradox Sports.  The show went well and I thank Trango and Stonewear for providing swag for the give-aways.  Also a big thanks to my brother for organizing and helping to promote the event!

During my short stay in Boston, my brother and I stole away for a day of climbing at Cathedral Ledges.  We climbed The Prow.  A proud line I would like to go back and free.  The route was intimidating and seeping wet, we did a mixed bag of aiding/ climbing two of the soggy pitches but were able to free the rest.

My brother and I....where is the wine bar?

Tuesday Oct. 23, I boarded the plane in Boston at 6 am.  Landed in Denver, 9am.  Hopped a bus to Boulder, grabbed "Randy" (my trusty Subaru Forester), and drove to Estes.  Had a quick bloody mary at Ed's Cantina with a friend, unpacked, re-packed, then drove to the Black Canyon.

I arrived around midnight, chucked my sleeping bag on the ground next to AB and zonked out.  I had been up for almost 24 hours and was cross-eyed from playing a game of frogger with deer and elk on the road!!!

Rappelling off of Medicine Man

The pink sky poked gently at my eyelids.  Jes quietly rustled through kitchen supplies as Andrew watched the sun do its magic at the rim.  After a dreary stretch, I was soon standing aside the picnic table drinking coffee and catching up with my NIAD partner, her current road trip partner, Bo, and my favorite person, Andrew Barnes.  Jes and Bo had been climbing in the Black for a few days and were leaving, while Andrew and I had just arrived.  After a leisurely breakfast, Andrew and I moseyed into the gneiss abyss and crawled our way out via the Checkerboard Wall.  What a lovely route.  A little heads up but overall a grand time....I even found a guidebook at the base!!

Our plan was to climb Southern Arete the following day--evening putting some names down on the white board---not our real names of course--- but snow began to flurry about us at camp.  Colorado National Monument and Medicine Man were on my list, so we departed the Black earlier than desired. Our mission was to chase an eternal fall...snow was not appropriate!

Otto's Route, Colorado National Monument

Opening the car doors at Sentinal Spire, in Grand Junction, 30 degree temps and a brain freeze wind greeted us.  Wine bars, distillery's and visiting with Heather, my best girlfriend Prairie's sister, sounded much more enticing.   Medicine Man was rescheduled for the following day and what a gorgeous day it turned out to be.

Medicine Man

Fifty degree temps, light breeze, southern exposure, splitter hand crack, and a surprise photographer at a view point who emailed photos of us rappelling. Unfortunately the route we climbed is on the opposite side of the tower, but Otto's Route is in the background!!

We departed the next day for Indian Creek, popping off for a quick visit to friends in Paradox Valley, Colorado.

The car now brimming with potatoes, dill, and laughter we rolled into Indian Creek.  After a quick deciphering of Maren and Adam's message, we headed up for a half day of cragging at Scarface Wall with the family.

Day 2 the gang piled up at Way Rambo area.  I tried Way Rambo as my first climb of the day, but was unsuccessful.  I am terrible at green Camelot sizes.  Knowing this, I decided to hop on Slice and Dice.  Yet another failed attempt---well I broke it into 5 pitches!  I did finally started feeling a little more confident though.  Green Camelots I will learn to love!!  Andrew crushed Layaway Plan.

Day 3 in Indian Creek was Halloween.  Andrew, Brennan, and I danced to a little "Thriller" from the car as breakfast potatoes simmered.   We racked up for a Vision Quest.  Climbing in costumes that were reminiscent to Saved by the Bell's,  Zach, Kelly, and Slater.....that swimsuit top thing Kelly was
sporting is not ideal for off-widths!!!

Atop the Bridger Jacks, we could see the cottonwoods twinkling yellow, red sandstone spires and walls reaching up towards a piercing blue sky.  The Vision Quest was being fulfilled. The golden light of fall had found a way to hang on!!

Oh an Eternal Fall

Fall Visuals

Mary Marmorstone, my co-instructor!  Mazama, WA.

North Cascades Basecamp.  Site of 2012 Mindful Movment Retreat

First day of climbing...ever for Leslie!

Sunday morning church session.

Aspen in Aspen

Colorado Fall

Dan Gambino Photo.  RMNP

Climbing on Gollums Arch, RMNP

Wedding in Aspen with Kelly and Rohan!

HOME!!  On my flight home from Yosemite- Oct 4, 2012

Luke on Conads, RMNP.  Dan Gambino Photograph.

Summit Dance Parties

“You got to cry without weeping, talk without speaking, scream without raising your voice.”

This quote from U2 song, Running to Stand Still,  reminds me that we should be mindful of how we project ourselves.  Actions speak louder than words.  

This past week the Nose Record on El Capitan was broken.  While I am cognizant of the theory behind setting records--- they motivate others to break them, my ego struggles.  I can’t quite place it, but I feel a small twinge of jealousy or perhaps regret of not trying hard enough. 

Mayan-Gobat Smith and Chantel Astorga atop the Nose.

I know for a fact I feel pressure both internally and externally to attempt the Nose again.  

My friend Timmy (coincidentally, a former Nose record holder), consoled me, “You know Quinn, I think it is important to keep moving forward.”  

Move forward? 
Move forward!

I feel I am at a tipping point.  I am a long time climber and wilderness enthusiast, just now seeking sponsorships.  These sponsorships help fuel the adventures-- supplementing necessary gear and travel costs.  What a fantastic advantage to testing and using new gear and clothing, allowing me to continue exploring the joys of climbing!!!  Thank you, my current sponsors Trango, Stonewear, and Alpine Aire!

Equally important though, is my personal desire to give back my community.  Climbing is inherently selfish.  I spend so much of my time enjoying personal adventures in the wilderness, I feel the need to support and advocate, ensuring that these beautiful places exist for future generations and others adventures.  

I keep busy doing this by teaching, volunteering, giving slideshows, fundraising, and grant writing.  

It is my hope that my profound passion for mental and physical experiences will not only inspire others to get out and play, but raise money for organizations that support wilderness adventures also!  
My main support avenue at the moment is Paradox Sports (http://www.paradoxsport.org)

Coincidently, the weekend of the new Nose Record, was the Mindful Movement Retreat in Mazama, Washington.  My company, Dovetail Mountain Endeavors (www.dovetailmountain.com) worked in collaboration with Mary Marmorstone (www.moonstoneyoga.net).  

Check out a video of our retreat, put together by Lilly Mongeau
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0z3z2gj3wA&feature=youtu.be

We guided 12 women through meditation, yoga, and rock climbing.  Our intention was to open a dialogue concerning thought limiting behavior, fears, and how to access the mind-body connection for use in positive ways.

Overall, we focused on our actions and how we should all be mindful of our place --both internally and externally--in this world!

The timing of these events was just was a wonderful reminder for me to explore inward for a moment. Marrying the adventures around me with the churning river inside, settle the sand a little.  Helping me to stretch the corners of my mouth up towards my ears and enjoy a summit dance party!  

Tenaya Ra's

I spoke briefly last time about using some new rock climbing shoes.  Well here they are!  Tenaya Ra's.

Ra's have an excellent sharp edge with a barely noticeable downturned toe.  Aggressive for a single pitch sport climb, but comfy enough for a few pitch trad route.  The toe box is a little narrow, but I don't have narrow feet and they fit just great!  The shoes are soled with Vibram rubber.  They hold well when standing on little granite nubbins, edges and heel hooking.  

They smear alright, but do feel a little stiff underfoot.  Perhaps I should blame my use of 10 year old re-re-re-re-soled climbing shoes. 

The velcro and stitching seem to be well manufactured, and there seems to be minimal, if any, stretch so far.  I have had problems with other manufacturers climbing shoe's with durablity etc.  So far, my Tenaya's are killing it!
 Check them out at http://www.trango.com/tenaya

20-12's in 2012

Plus one 5.13!

After the June trip to Yosemite I needed an obtainable/fun goal to occupy my mind.

Chris Trimble confused by the summer choices!

What to do?  What to do?

Summer in Estes is filled with too much work, a lot of play, and minimal amounts of sleep.  I rallied friends and co-workers, "let's all try to climb twenty 5.12's in the year 2012!"  Some agreed to the challenge and currently we are all working towards completing the 20.  Adam Sanders, Trango Rep. and climbing madman set this goal in 2011, trying to climb 20 5.12's before 2012 arrived.  I stole his idea! :)

So far, I have climbed 8 sport climbs and one traditional climb.  (It seems I have time for a sport wanking outing about once a week).  My one full day off each week is spent wandering the Rocky Mountains alpine splitters!

The list is ongoing....and I have updated as I have climbed!



So far

1.  Mistrel in the Gallery, 5.12, The Gallery, Red Rocks

Justin Dubois Photo

2.  Blisters in the Sun, 5.12a Queen Creek, Arizona
3.  Days of Future Past- 5.12a, Animal World--Boulder Canyon

4.  Free Fall -5.12a, Avalon--Boulder Canyon

5.  Furious Howard Brown 5.12 a/b, Surprising Crag--Boulder Canyon

6. Threshold of a Dream 5.12-, Animal World--Boulder Canyon

7.  Wet Denim Day Dream 5.12-, Wall of the 90's--Clear Creek (Onsight)

8.  Red Neck Hero 5.12, River Wall---Button Rock Reservoir.  

9. The Wasp 5.13-, Rock of Ages --- Rocky Mountain National Park (3rd try on lead, trad climb)

10. Rise and Shine 5.12-, Bitty Butress -- Boulder Canyon
11.  The Gate Keepr 5.12a, Wizards Gate --- The Crags, RMNP
12. All Too Obvious 5.12, Spearhead---RMNP (onsight) (traditional)
13. Medicine Man 5.12b, Colorado National Monument (onsight) (traditional)
14.  Jolt Cola 5.12a, Blob Rock, Boulder Canyon
15.  Aoxamoxoa, 5.12b, The Bank, Shelf Road
16. Pick Pocket 5.12a, Cactus Cliff, Shelf Road
17. Blade Runner 5.12a, Cactus Cliff, Shelf Road

My most exciting lead to date, The Wasp, occurred Wednesday July something or other.  Tuesday, I hiked out with Bronson to top rope and suss out some gear.  Previously, I had one top-rope lap on The Wasp this summer in late June.  I also have had some miserable burns on it a few summers back.  This June was the first time I top-roped it with no falls and no extreme pump.  I had to work at noon, so although I felt strong and was tempted for a lead go, I didn't have time.

Wednesday, my girlfriend Kelly Cramer, returned with me.  Through a small debate on the hike up, WE decided that there would be no more top-roping.  I would walk up to the climb and lead the darn thing.  I fell entering the crux traverse.  BOO.  I was fully pumped.

I rested for a while, then tried again.  Feeling solid I reached the "jug" at the end of the traverse left, but had placed a piece in the way.  I shuffled around trying to jam my hand under the cam, but in my flurry ended up just grabbing it.  Double BOO.  I definitely hollered a few F-Bombs.  Irritated at my lack of mental control!!!!

 I was also worried I wouldn't have the energy for another full effort.  I rested 20 minutes or so, then headed up for the 3rd time.  Through the traverse, I placed the cam in a better location, moved through, and stood up for a rest.  One more reachy move puts you on a "smile-evoking-foot-holds-surprise-hand-rail-of-joy"traverse right.  I placed another piece but was short a runner.  I clipped it directly and began climbing upwards towards the piton.

The Wasp, Photo taken from Mountain Project

WHEN DID THE SMALL CHILD JUMP ON MY BACK, I thought?  I just sand-bagged myself with an extreme lightening zag of rope drag.  I thought about down-climbing and taking the piece out but thought I would waste to much energy.  In hindsight, I wasted just as much energy climbing upwards with the rope drag, Elvis clipping and such.  Even with the little extra epic I created for myself, I clipped the piton, moved through the last few crimps to the jug at the lip with just enough energy!  YAHOO!!!!!!!!!

Heel hooking in the Ra's in Boulder Canyon!  

Thanks Kelly and Bronson for hiking out there with me!

Recently, Trango has picked up Tenaya shoes, and have been testing a few.  I have always been partial to climbing with Muira's, but am finding Tenaya's Ra to be quite comparable.  Great rubber, stiff and comfortable.  The Masai's are a less aggressive shoe that I am climbing in a size bigger than usual, but am loving them for long days.  They still have a great toe box and edge, but more flexibility.  My Off-width shoes of choice!!

Give these shoes a try!!!

Thirty seven.

http://sangre-de-cristo.com/rmnp/rmnp-gif.html

Lumpy Ridge is my home crag here in Estes Park, Colorado!  Thousands of routes varying from 5.2-5.13.  Most routes are slightly less then vertical containing splitter cracks, flared seams, and demand a consciousness towards footwork and gear placements.  I love it!!!  Generally the cliffs are south facing and the rock quality is superb.  Sometimes the winds are heinous as are the little RP placements, but its all in good fun!

A rare steep wall on Lumpy Ridge

Justin Dubios and I have been scheming a long day at lumpy for a while.  He has been itching to solo 50 pitches on Lumpy, but was unsure of the feasibility---especially if you are not to repeat a route.  I love long days running around climbing moderates and being an enduro freak...I signed up immediately!!!!  Justin previously has climbed a route on almost every formation at Lumpy in a day!
SICK BIRD!



Thursday Aug 16th, we were off in hopes of climbing 50, by the book pitches, on Lumpy.  Our plan was to solo some and simul-climb others.  All the while, trying to keep the difficulty 5.10 or under.  We didn't want to proper pitch much of anything out, allowing us to move faster  We had the 5.10 climbs figured just right, so the leader could get a proper belay during the crux sections, but neither would be in the thick of it while simul-climbing.  We also did not fix any lines to rappel, descending each formation many many times via their standard descent routes.  (Except the Bookmark Pinnacle and the Bookmark which include standard rappel decent).  This is some crazy endeavor in down climbing that we overlooked in the planning stages.  Not a big deal, but it is quite time consuming.

Bronson crimping on Lumpy Flare and Crystals

We started climbing at 8:15 am, albeit with a little murky weather.  Low clouds and the haze from distant fires made it look a little less promising of a day.  Eventually it started to clear, and thankfully for temperature control,  a little cloud cover remained.   (Our routes and how he climbed are listed below.)

We stopped climbing at about 5:15 after waiting out one brief rainstorm, and as sprinkles began to fall for a second time.  We were both feeling a little fatigued but willing to continue with plenty of food, water, and energy.  Because of the time, the pending second bout of rain, and both having evening engagements we hoped not to miss, we decided to call it a day.  Thirty-seven pitches according to the book.

We will return and finish the Lumpy 50 pitches-in-a day, SOON!  GREAT DAY!  Thanks Justin!






Femp - 5.9 with the Hurly Traverse Exit 5.7 (simul-climb 1 pitch - Justin's)
Loose Ends - 5.9 with the Cave Exit 5.7 (simul-climb 1 pitch - Quinn's)
Pear Buttress - 5.8 (1 pitch - Justin's)
Cheap Date 5.10b to Outlander's last pitch - 5.10c (1 pitch - Quinn's)
Osiris - 5.7 (Solo)
Bookmark Pinnacle - 5.8 (simul-climb 1 pitch - Justin's)
Melvins Wheel - 5.8 (simul-cimb 1 pitch - Quinn's)
White Whale - 5.7 (Solo)
RAINSTORM hit finishing the last 10 feet of the climb---waited it out
Hiatus 5.7 (simul-climb 1 pitch - Justin's)  Rock still a little moist so used rope...happy to have it
The Cottontail 5.6 (Solo)
Zingando 5.5 (Solo)

Climbs we were too lazy to finish on and ones we will add to the list.......
Batman and Robin (will add in next time)
Summer Breeze (will add in next time)
The Dog and Manifest Destiny (these routes are sort of the same-ish feel so left out)
The Great Dihedral (too lazy)
Climb of the Ancient Mariner (peaced out)
Magical Chrome Plated (if we need to)

Old Fall River Road

Faster!

I ran fall river road Friday before work.  Thanks to Wes Thompson, who was my drop off, pick up, and follow along car.  I didn't leave early enough, as bed is always too nice.  I started running a little after 7am and was hoping to run the entire 9 mile uphill run in an hour and half.  When Wes drove past me at 8:30, I contemplated just stopping and hopping in the car, but I only had 2 miles to go.  I put my head down, took a deep breath and kept on running.  I reached the Alpine Visitor Center in 1:44.  Fourteen minutes slower than I had hoped and 55 minutes before I needed to be to work.

Wes drove as a I stretched and rehydrated back to Estes Park.  The record (set by Bill Raiter in 2003) is 1:09.  That seems so crazy to me!!!

Old Fall River Road in the last mile or two. Alpine Visitor Center on horizon.  

I will try it again soon!