Shavasana

It is a new year, time for new goals.

Last year at this time, I had committed to climbing the Nose with careful preparation as days turned from January to late May.  I began slowly with my training regimen -- easing on the ice cream, alcohol, and exercising too.  If you know me, you know that I am sort of non-stop.  This was an endurance training, so non-stop was great, but I didn't want to wear too quickly.


After the Nose in June, I cancelled a massage appointment and to this day haven't made time to reschedule....





It has been an awesome year, but I have realized that I need to rest.  I want to have another rad year!!!
A little nap in the midst of the already full year of events-- 2013 has a full schedule of trips, expeditions, retreats, training and more training, work, growth, and hopefully laughter and health.

I have athletic ambitions, as well as, work commitments.  Dovetail Mountain will take another leap....for the best I can only hope!!!

To start this year, I have moved to the beach for a month of yoga, surfing, running, napping, and handstands.   I felt strong before I left Colorado--forearms full of endurance--- but the earth was also full of freezing cold temperatures.  Rock climbing season was in hibernation.


This is my mini-hibernation.

I do worry about loosing my endurance or mental strength, but am also aware of this much needed break.  It is a new year.  Time for new beginning.

Re-set, let go, start from a base that is even better than the year past.

Looking, standing, breathing again!  

The Raptor!

I am not an ice climber....well, I have now gone, liked it, and I will most certainly go again!

My first experience was years ago with an acquaintance.  I wasn't quite sure what he was looking for, but we hiked around a lot up the Lawn Lake Trail.  I never took my tools off the pack, even to this day I have no idea what moderate ice we might have been looking for.  Oh well.

All Mixed Up, Thatchtop Mt., RMNP

My second experience, was this November a few weeks after my whipper in Zion.  My experienced friend was very patient while I gimped up the trail, and even more caring when we stopped at the base of All Mixed Up to gear up and my feet were already frozen.  After attempting to warm them, feed me, hydrate me, dance around, we ended up turning around.

What a sissy!

I am from Minnesota, I used to tolerate the cold so well.  Wow, too many winters chasing eternal fall!

My third experience was just after Thanksgiving and it went swimmingly.  Granted I borrowed warmer, more appropriate, boots.

The three of us, 2 non-experienced ice climbers and a third who had previously climbed at our desired destination, Hidden Falls.  We had a leisurely breakfast, drove to Wild Basin in Rocky Mountain National Park, strapped on the packs, and wandered down the road, now winter trail, west.

Then we wandered down the road east, back tracking.  We wandered a short trail parallel to the road for awhile.  Then we wandered about another pull-out and trail.  Finally, we wandered further west definitively.  Our third, "leader", didn't quite remember how far to wander the road, where Hidden Falls might be hidden, and surely didn't even know what day it was.

All in good fun.  We arrived, just as another pair of climbers was hiking out.

Perfect.  Place to ourselves.

I just top-roped, but messed around with dry-tooling (which I had done before last winter in the Cascades), but I also got to climb a few pitches of just ice.

I was enjoying my new ice tools, and the boys were also enjoying my new ice tools.  The Trango Raptors saw 8-10 pitches on their first day out.  These nice tools have an aggressive pick, are quite light, and have an excellent grip.  I really enjoyed the grip set up, allowing me to switch hands comfortably, gripping above the standard grip location was equally as comfortable and easy.

Get your new pair at http://www.trango.com/ice_gear/Raptor  

Integration

I love climbing.

Central Park this fall

I enjoy moving in the mountains for hours at a time.  

I love a good glass of wine and laughter filling the room.  

I love falling in love, playing the piano, learning, teaching, and a full breathe filling my lungs.

The list could go on.    

This fall was filled with some unbelievably good times along with some heartbreaking ridiculousness.  

I haven't slept in the same bed for more than 3 nights since September 1st.  This in part to--too much travel, a break-up turned sour, and two residential moves.   

2nd Meat Wall -Indian Creek (Photo Nathan Welton)

We have had two fires in the town of Estes Park.  The first one, in June, saw KMAC evacuated and the boys running around to save Harry's house and property.  As I write, the Fern Lake fire continues to smoulder over Eagle Cliff --closing in on the 66 corridor.    

Top Sirloin -- Nathan Welton

In early November, I took a 25 foot fall in Zion, thinking I broke my hand and my femur.  Fortunately, my helmet-less-ego-hurt body faced only minor injuries considering the rock broke, my blue Alien popped and I fell upside-down below my belayer and the ledge he was standing on.  Andrew caught me abruptly.  The only other piece I had placed was a .03 Black Diamond Cam and it was only 4 feet above our belay.  I limped noticeably for 2 weeks with a giant softball muscle wad in my left thigh and a purple thumb/palm that still refuses to hold a plate or zip my fly without pain.  

We also elected, as a Nation, to keep our current president.  I am happy about that.  I had an amazing 80's prom themed birthday party and I have made some moves towards forwarding my company Dovetail Mountain Endeavors.

Lightening Bolt Crack-North Sixth Shooter (Nathan Welton)

All of these events have thrust me into a whirlwind of thoughts and actions.  Learning to trust myself, my instincts.  More importantly, to ask for help and take it when it is given selflessly. 

  

I am learning to place less value on the things in my life.  I am thankful for the people within the moments and the moments as they happen--good or bad.    

The gang atop the N.Sixth Shooter-- Nathan, Quinn, Dustin, Prairie, and Matty.  

I continue to climb because it is ingrained in my soul to move, to explore with a sweaty brow, to push through my fears with tears welled in the corner of my eyes.

I continue to teach, to learn, to grow.  I feel a little slow in my attempts towards integration...but better than not at all....Right?

Taking in the vast Canyonlands vista

"Think of the state of mind you were in before you began reading.  It was a fresh mind.  With no ideas, you came with a fresh mind to look at this book (blog).  If we can maintain that state in our daily lives, that is known as integration.  To be fully integrated means to integrate oneself totally from the body to the self and also to live in integration with one's neighbours and surroundings..... In this way we remain ever fresh, ever peaceful, and with ever growing intelligence."

BKS Iyengar--The Tree of Yoga

  

Lungs filled, hearts sighing.  

Eternal Fall

Following the first pitch on The Prow

Wow.  I had a busy little October.

Climbed the Nose in a Day again with some friends...."Keeping it casual!"  I was only in the Valley for 3 days.  Man I love that place!

10 days later I found myself giving a slideshow on speed climbing the Nose at Metro Rock in Boston, This even was a fund-raiser for Paradox Sports.  The show went well and I thank Trango and Stonewear for providing swag for the give-aways.  Also a big thanks to my brother for organizing and helping to promote the event!

During my short stay in Boston, my brother and I stole away for a day of climbing at Cathedral Ledges.  We climbed The Prow.  A proud line I would like to go back and free.  The route was intimidating and seeping wet, we did a mixed bag of aiding/ climbing two of the soggy pitches but were able to free the rest.

My brother and I....where is the wine bar?

Tuesday Oct. 23, I boarded the plane in Boston at 6 am.  Landed in Denver, 9am.  Hopped a bus to Boulder, grabbed "Randy" (my trusty Subaru Forester), and drove to Estes.  Had a quick bloody mary at Ed's Cantina with a friend, unpacked, re-packed, then drove to the Black Canyon.

I arrived around midnight, chucked my sleeping bag on the ground next to AB and zonked out.  I had been up for almost 24 hours and was cross-eyed from playing a game of frogger with deer and elk on the road!!!

Rappelling off of Medicine Man

The pink sky poked gently at my eyelids.  Jes quietly rustled through kitchen supplies as Andrew watched the sun do its magic at the rim.  After a dreary stretch, I was soon standing aside the picnic table drinking coffee and catching up with my NIAD partner, her current road trip partner, Bo, and my favorite person, Andrew Barnes.  Jes and Bo had been climbing in the Black for a few days and were leaving, while Andrew and I had just arrived.  After a leisurely breakfast, Andrew and I moseyed into the gneiss abyss and crawled our way out via the Checkerboard Wall.  What a lovely route.  A little heads up but overall a grand time....I even found a guidebook at the base!!

Our plan was to climb Southern Arete the following day--evening putting some names down on the white board---not our real names of course--- but snow began to flurry about us at camp.  Colorado National Monument and Medicine Man were on my list, so we departed the Black earlier than desired. Our mission was to chase an eternal fall...snow was not appropriate!

Otto's Route, Colorado National Monument

Opening the car doors at Sentinal Spire, in Grand Junction, 30 degree temps and a brain freeze wind greeted us.  Wine bars, distillery's and visiting with Heather, my best girlfriend Prairie's sister, sounded much more enticing.   Medicine Man was rescheduled for the following day and what a gorgeous day it turned out to be.

Medicine Man

Fifty degree temps, light breeze, southern exposure, splitter hand crack, and a surprise photographer at a view point who emailed photos of us rappelling. Unfortunately the route we climbed is on the opposite side of the tower, but Otto's Route is in the background!!

We departed the next day for Indian Creek, popping off for a quick visit to friends in Paradox Valley, Colorado.

The car now brimming with potatoes, dill, and laughter we rolled into Indian Creek.  After a quick deciphering of Maren and Adam's message, we headed up for a half day of cragging at Scarface Wall with the family.

Day 2 the gang piled up at Way Rambo area.  I tried Way Rambo as my first climb of the day, but was unsuccessful.  I am terrible at green Camelot sizes.  Knowing this, I decided to hop on Slice and Dice.  Yet another failed attempt---well I broke it into 5 pitches!  I did finally started feeling a little more confident though.  Green Camelots I will learn to love!!  Andrew crushed Layaway Plan.

Day 3 in Indian Creek was Halloween.  Andrew, Brennan, and I danced to a little "Thriller" from the car as breakfast potatoes simmered.   We racked up for a Vision Quest.  Climbing in costumes that were reminiscent to Saved by the Bell's,  Zach, Kelly, and Slater.....that swimsuit top thing Kelly was
sporting is not ideal for off-widths!!!

Atop the Bridger Jacks, we could see the cottonwoods twinkling yellow, red sandstone spires and walls reaching up towards a piercing blue sky.  The Vision Quest was being fulfilled. The golden light of fall had found a way to hang on!!

Oh an Eternal Fall

Fall Visuals

Mary Marmorstone, my co-instructor!  Mazama, WA.

North Cascades Basecamp.  Site of 2012 Mindful Movment Retreat

First day of climbing...ever for Leslie!

Sunday morning church session.

Aspen in Aspen

Colorado Fall

Dan Gambino Photo.  RMNP

Climbing on Gollums Arch, RMNP

Wedding in Aspen with Kelly and Rohan!

HOME!!  On my flight home from Yosemite- Oct 4, 2012

Luke on Conads, RMNP.  Dan Gambino Photograph.

Summit Dance Parties

“You got to cry without weeping, talk without speaking, scream without raising your voice.”

This quote from U2 song, Running to Stand Still,  reminds me that we should be mindful of how we project ourselves.  Actions speak louder than words.  

This past week the Nose Record on El Capitan was broken.  While I am cognizant of the theory behind setting records--- they motivate others to break them, my ego struggles.  I can’t quite place it, but I feel a small twinge of jealousy or perhaps regret of not trying hard enough. 

Mayan-Gobat Smith and Chantel Astorga atop the Nose.

I know for a fact I feel pressure both internally and externally to attempt the Nose again.  

My friend Timmy (coincidentally, a former Nose record holder), consoled me, “You know Quinn, I think it is important to keep moving forward.”  

Move forward? 
Move forward!

I feel I am at a tipping point.  I am a long time climber and wilderness enthusiast, just now seeking sponsorships.  These sponsorships help fuel the adventures-- supplementing necessary gear and travel costs.  What a fantastic advantage to testing and using new gear and clothing, allowing me to continue exploring the joys of climbing!!!  Thank you, my current sponsors Trango, Stonewear, and Alpine Aire!

Equally important though, is my personal desire to give back my community.  Climbing is inherently selfish.  I spend so much of my time enjoying personal adventures in the wilderness, I feel the need to support and advocate, ensuring that these beautiful places exist for future generations and others adventures.  

I keep busy doing this by teaching, volunteering, giving slideshows, fundraising, and grant writing.  

It is my hope that my profound passion for mental and physical experiences will not only inspire others to get out and play, but raise money for organizations that support wilderness adventures also!  
My main support avenue at the moment is Paradox Sports (http://www.paradoxsport.org)

Coincidently, the weekend of the new Nose Record, was the Mindful Movement Retreat in Mazama, Washington.  My company, Dovetail Mountain Endeavors (www.dovetailmountain.com) worked in collaboration with Mary Marmorstone (www.moonstoneyoga.net).  

Check out a video of our retreat, put together by Lilly Mongeau
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0z3z2gj3wA&feature=youtu.be

We guided 12 women through meditation, yoga, and rock climbing.  Our intention was to open a dialogue concerning thought limiting behavior, fears, and how to access the mind-body connection for use in positive ways.

Overall, we focused on our actions and how we should all be mindful of our place --both internally and externally--in this world!

The timing of these events was just was a wonderful reminder for me to explore inward for a moment. Marrying the adventures around me with the churning river inside, settle the sand a little.  Helping me to stretch the corners of my mouth up towards my ears and enjoy a summit dance party!  

Tenaya Ra's

I spoke briefly last time about using some new rock climbing shoes.  Well here they are!  Tenaya Ra's.

Ra's have an excellent sharp edge with a barely noticeable downturned toe.  Aggressive for a single pitch sport climb, but comfy enough for a few pitch trad route.  The toe box is a little narrow, but I don't have narrow feet and they fit just great!  The shoes are soled with Vibram rubber.  They hold well when standing on little granite nubbins, edges and heel hooking.  

They smear alright, but do feel a little stiff underfoot.  Perhaps I should blame my use of 10 year old re-re-re-re-soled climbing shoes. 

The velcro and stitching seem to be well manufactured, and there seems to be minimal, if any, stretch so far.  I have had problems with other manufacturers climbing shoe's with durablity etc.  So far, my Tenaya's are killing it!
 Check them out at http://www.trango.com/tenaya