Nose In a Day, June 5th 2012

Last Pitch on the nose

On Wednesday of this week, Jes and I had a formal go at climbing the Nose in a day (NIAD).  I don't know how to count apparently, thinking we had done it in just over 13 hours.  Turns out it was 14:30.  An awesome feat I should not forget to send a little joy towards.  Not too shabby for our first go, although it is easy to immediately think about how we need to drop about 4 hours from that time.  I am not sure where we can trim that great of an amount of time!!!!

Jes under the great roof

Headed up the stove legs; pitches 7-11

I am nervous and exhausted.  My quad's hurt like a motherF*&%#er and my body is tired.  I want to crush this thing, but I am overwhelmed with dropping nearly 1/3 of our time.  YIKES.  We will give it another rip on Sunday or Monday.  Jes is down with a third go perhaps Wednesday, but I just don't know if I have it in me.


I feel like I need a break from the route.  Is that bad?  I am not used to projecting something so intensely.  Climbing has always been about a new adventure every day, I guess I need to flip my perspective.  I can still have a new adventure on this now very rehearsed rock climb.

Oh did I mention its ladies day climbing?  Sundresses please!

I bit my lips, hoping for enough time to climb Half Dome next week.  I know I can return to Yosemite in October for another attempt on The Nose.  Perhaps it is the fatigue talking.

Yesterday we hiked down from El Captain on the Yosemite falls trail, instead of the usual East Ledges.  We met a solo climber, Francis, at the top and helped to carry his load out.  Francis, spent 8 days on the wall climbing a route called "New Dawn."

Jes' two friends, Emily and Colin met us at the top with shoes, water, and sleeping bags.  Amazing!!!!! Thanks a billion to those two.


After the hike out, Prairie, some other valley friends, and I floated the Merced river.  The icy river felt lovely on my sore body.  We also had a massive tear in our floaty, creating a mandatory swim finish.

Casual Friday climb up Serenity Cr

Today Prairie, Trevor, and I climbed 3 pitches up on Serenity Crack.  I felt pretty pooped.  Attempting to sit still this evening and all of tomorrow.

I find I am impatient with rest days, temptations of sun shining, fantastic company, and splitter routes.  Alas, I attempt to stay focused and healthy for another solid go.  

In other news, Wes flew to Patagonia today for work.  I got to skype with him while he waited in the Santiago Airport.  It will be a few months before we get to spend time together.  I miss his face and while he is supportive of this endeavor it would be even better if he were here by my side.  

Half Dome from El Capitan summit on our NIAD.