Friday, August 17, 2012

Thirty seven.

Lumpy Ridge is my home crag here in Estes Park, Colorado!  Thousands of routes varying from 5.2-5.13.  Most routes are slightly less then vertical containing splitter cracks, flared seams, and demand a consciousness towards footwork and gear placements.  I love it!!!  Generally the cliffs are south facing and the rock quality is superb.  Sometimes the winds are heinous as are the little RP placements, but its all in good fun!

A rare steep wall on Lumpy Ridge

Justin Dubios and I have been scheming a long day at lumpy for a while.  He has been itching to solo 50 pitches on Lumpy, but was unsure of the feasibility---especially if you are not to repeat a route.  I love long days running around climbing moderates and being an enduro freak...I signed up immediately!!!!  Justin previously has climbed a route on almost every formation at Lumpy in a day!

Thursday Aug 16th, we were off in hopes of climbing 50, by the book pitches, on Lumpy.  Our plan was to solo some and simul-climb others.  All the while, trying to keep the difficulty 5.10 or under.  We didn't want to proper pitch much of anything out, allowing us to move faster  We had the 5.10 climbs figured just right, so the leader could get a proper belay during the crux sections, but neither would be in the thick of it while simul-climbing.  We also did not fix any lines to rappel, descending each formation many many times via their standard descent routes.  (Except the Bookmark Pinnacle and the Bookmark which include standard rappel decent).  This is some crazy endeavor in down climbing that we overlooked in the planning stages.  Not a big deal, but it is quite time consuming.

Bronson crimping on Lumpy Flare and Crystals

We started climbing at 8:15 am, albeit with a little murky weather.  Low clouds and the haze from distant fires made it look a little less promising of a day.  Eventually it started to clear, and thankfully for temperature control,  a little cloud cover remained.   (Our routes and how he climbed are listed below.)

We stopped climbing at about 5:15 after waiting out one brief rainstorm, and as sprinkles began to fall for a second time.  We were both feeling a little fatigued but willing to continue with plenty of food, water, and energy.  Because of the time, the pending second bout of rain, and both having evening engagements we hoped not to miss, we decided to call it a day.  Thirty-seven pitches according to the book.

We will return and finish the Lumpy 50 pitches-in-a day, SOON!  GREAT DAY!  Thanks Justin!

Femp - 5.9 with the Hurly Traverse Exit 5.7 (simul-climb 1 pitch - Justin's)
Loose Ends - 5.9 with the Cave Exit 5.7 (simul-climb 1 pitch - Quinn's)
Pear Buttress - 5.8 (1 pitch - Justin's)
Cheap Date 5.10b to Outlander's last pitch - 5.10c (1 pitch - Quinn's)
Osiris - 5.7 (Solo)
Bookmark Pinnacle - 5.8 (simul-climb 1 pitch - Justin's)
Melvins Wheel - 5.8 (simul-cimb 1 pitch - Quinn's)
White Whale - 5.7 (Solo)
RAINSTORM hit finishing the last 10 feet of the climb---waited it out
Hiatus 5.7 (simul-climb 1 pitch - Justin's)  Rock still a little moist so used rope...happy to have it
The Cottontail 5.6 (Solo)
Zingando 5.5 (Solo)

Climbs we were too lazy to finish on and ones we will add to the list.......
Batman and Robin (will add in next time)
Summer Breeze (will add in next time)
The Dog and Manifest Destiny (these routes are sort of the same-ish feel so left out)
The Great Dihedral (too lazy)
Climb of the Ancient Mariner (peaced out)
Magical Chrome Plated (if we need to)

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