Sunday, January 22, 2017

Yosemite's Red-Headed Step Child.

I limped along a 3 mile semi-trail at the Boyce Thompson Arboretum with my folks.  Dad questioned, "did you really run from one side of the Grand Canyon to the other, in one day?"
Mom chuckled at my pace, "are you really that sore?  Finally we are faster than you!"

That was Sunday, two days after our massive jaunt.

Monday I was northbound again, to Zion!  Libby, who patiently forgave my week hiatus in our plans, was awaiting our next adventure.   Legs still ached but the approaches to the sandstone cliffs in Zion were managable.  "Bobs Big Wall Service," as I affectionately like to call the shuttle busses in Zion, drop you off at the start of your intended route.  I just needed to boogie up 100-200 feet of trail.

Tuesday we goofed our way up Touchstone Wall.   It went rather quick.  I led the first half, then Libby took the lead and we simul-climbed to the top.  She was on-sighting the route.  I think we had a time of just under 3 hours?

Wednesday we wove into the sandstone canyon again.  Climbing was a different movement that felt nice for achy legs.  Familiar with the top of Spaceshot, we simuled the first 3 pitches and Libby scoped out the middle pitches on lead.  We rappelled mid-day.  After a quick regroup, we wandered over to Sheer Lunacy.  Again, I was familiar with the start so I led us up to where Sheer and Moonlight diverge from one another.

 In 2013, Buster Jesick and I successfully climbed Spaceshot, Touchstone and Moonlight before a series of misadventures had us agreeing safety over stupidity.  To climb 4 walls in a day in Zion was still on my bucket list.

Libby took climbing to a stance below Toquerville Tower.  From here I zoomed up an easy long pitch to the base of the goods.  I chose to short fix/aid the 13 variation straight up to the top of the wall.  Our time was great, we felt confident in our gear --- now we just needed to weave the potential crowds on attempt day!

Thursday we ate pizza, drank beer while chatting with our videographer friends Cody and Scottie (  Adidas hired them to make a short video on Libby doing her usual badass shit, climbing and nursing.

When Libby and I successfully climbed two routes on El Cap in a day I apologized for our time, as I had a  This time our mishaps included a forgotten tag-line at the base of Sheer Lunacy, requiring a quick barefoot run across the river and back.  One failed party passing, "we do don't that here!" regarding speed climbing in Zion.  Two core shot ropes, one we climbed the entirety of Moonlight Buttress.  Oh, and when we rapped Moonlight before climbing it and we passed over a team of 4 women.  It sure is nice to see chica's sending out there!!!

Full Value Friday----

Routes in order:
·        Spaceshot (5.7 C2 IV 800 feet)--2:40
·        Touchstone Wall (5.9 C2 V 820 feet)--2:02
·        Sheer Lunacy (5.9 C2 IV 1100 feet)--3:09
·        Moonlight Buttress (5.8 C1 V 1200 feet)--4:17