Sunday, August 26, 2012

20-12's in 2012

Plus one 5.13!

After the June trip to Yosemite I needed an obtainable/fun goal to occupy my mind.

Chris Trimble confused by the summer choices!
What to do?  What to do?

Summer in Estes is filled with too much work, a lot of play, and minimal amounts of sleep.  I rallied friends and co-workers, "let's all try to climb twenty 5.12's in the year 2012!"  Some agreed to the challenge and currently we are all working towards completing the 20.  Adam Sanders, Trango Rep. and climbing madman set this goal in 2011, trying to climb 20 5.12's before 2012 arrived.  I stole his idea! :)

So far, I have climbed 8 sport climbs and one traditional climb.  (It seems I have time for a sport wanking outing about once a week).  My one full day off each week is spent wandering the Rocky Mountains alpine splitters!

The list is ongoing....and I have updated as I have climbed!

So far

1.  Mistrel in the Gallery, 5.12, The Gallery, Red Rocks
Justin Dubois Photo
2.  Blisters in the Sun, 5.12a Queen Creek, Arizona
3.  Days of Future Past- 5.12a, Animal World--Boulder Canyon
4.  Free Fall -5.12a, Avalon--Boulder Canyon
5.  Furious Howard Brown 5.12 a/b, Surprising Crag--Boulder Canyon
6. Threshold of a Dream 5.12-, Animal World--Boulder Canyon
7.  Wet Denim Day Dream 5.12-, Wall of the 90's--Clear Creek (Onsight)
8.  Red Neck Hero 5.12, River Wall---Button Rock Reservoir.  
9. The Wasp 5.13-, Rock of Ages --- Rocky Mountain National Park (3rd try on lead, trad climb)
10. Rise and Shine 5.12-, Bitty Butress -- Boulder Canyon
11.  The Gate Keepr 5.12a, Wizards Gate --- The Crags, RMNP
12. All Too Obvious 5.12, Spearhead---RMNP (onsight) (traditional)
13. Medicine Man 5.12b, Colorado National Monument (onsight) (traditional)
14.  Jolt Cola 5.12a, Blob Rock, Boulder Canyon
15.  Aoxamoxoa, 5.12b, The Bank, Shelf Road
16. Pick Pocket 5.12a, Cactus Cliff, Shelf Road
17. Blade Runner 5.12a, Cactus Cliff, Shelf Road

My most exciting lead to date, The Wasp, occurred Wednesday July something or other.  Tuesday, I hiked out with Bronson to top rope and suss out some gear.  Previously, I had one top-rope lap on The Wasp this summer in late June.  I also have had some miserable burns on it a few summers back.  This June was the first time I top-roped it with no falls and no extreme pump.  I had to work at noon, so although I felt strong and was tempted for a lead go, I didn't have time.

Wednesday, my girlfriend Kelly Cramer, returned with me.  Through a small debate on the hike up, WE decided that there would be no more top-roping.  I would walk up to the climb and lead the darn thing.  I fell entering the crux traverse.  BOO.  I was fully pumped.

I rested for a while, then tried again.  Feeling solid I reached the "jug" at the end of the traverse left, but had placed a piece in the way.  I shuffled around trying to jam my hand under the cam, but in my flurry ended up just grabbing it.  Double BOO.  I definitely hollered a few F-Bombs.  Irritated at my lack of mental control!!!!

 I was also worried I wouldn't have the energy for another full effort.  I rested 20 minutes or so, then headed up for the 3rd time.  Through the traverse, I placed the cam in a better location, moved through, and stood up for a rest.  One more reachy move puts you on a "smile-evoking-foot-holds-surprise-hand-rail-of-joy"traverse right.  I placed another piece but was short a runner.  I clipped it directly and began climbing upwards towards the piton.
The Wasp, Photo taken from Mountain Project

WHEN DID THE SMALL CHILD JUMP ON MY BACK, I thought?  I just sand-bagged myself with an extreme lightening zag of rope drag.  I thought about down-climbing and taking the piece out but thought I would waste to much energy.  In hindsight, I wasted just as much energy climbing upwards with the rope drag, Elvis clipping and such.  Even with the little extra epic I created for myself, I clipped the piton, moved through the last few crimps to the jug at the lip with just enough energy!  YAHOO!!!!!!!!!

Heel hooking in the Ra's in Boulder Canyon!  

Thanks Kelly and Bronson for hiking out there with me!

Recently, Trango has picked up Tenaya shoes, and have been testing a few.  I have always been partial to climbing with Muira's, but am finding Tenaya's Ra to be quite comparable.  Great rubber, stiff and comfortable.  The Masai's are a less aggressive shoe that I am climbing in a size bigger than usual, but am loving them for long days.  They still have a great toe box and edge, but more flexibility.  My Off-width shoes of choice!!

Give these shoes a try!!!

Friday, August 17, 2012

Thirty seven.

Lumpy Ridge is my home crag here in Estes Park, Colorado!  Thousands of routes varying from 5.2-5.13.  Most routes are slightly less then vertical containing splitter cracks, flared seams, and demand a consciousness towards footwork and gear placements.  I love it!!!  Generally the cliffs are south facing and the rock quality is superb.  Sometimes the winds are heinous as are the little RP placements, but its all in good fun!

A rare steep wall on Lumpy Ridge

Justin Dubios and I have been scheming a long day at lumpy for a while.  He has been itching to solo 50 pitches on Lumpy, but was unsure of the feasibility---especially if you are not to repeat a route.  I love long days running around climbing moderates and being an enduro freak...I signed up immediately!!!!  Justin previously has climbed a route on almost every formation at Lumpy in a day!

Thursday Aug 16th, we were off in hopes of climbing 50, by the book pitches, on Lumpy.  Our plan was to solo some and simul-climb others.  All the while, trying to keep the difficulty 5.10 or under.  We didn't want to proper pitch much of anything out, allowing us to move faster  We had the 5.10 climbs figured just right, so the leader could get a proper belay during the crux sections, but neither would be in the thick of it while simul-climbing.  We also did not fix any lines to rappel, descending each formation many many times via their standard descent routes.  (Except the Bookmark Pinnacle and the Bookmark which include standard rappel decent).  This is some crazy endeavor in down climbing that we overlooked in the planning stages.  Not a big deal, but it is quite time consuming.

Bronson crimping on Lumpy Flare and Crystals

We started climbing at 8:15 am, albeit with a little murky weather.  Low clouds and the haze from distant fires made it look a little less promising of a day.  Eventually it started to clear, and thankfully for temperature control,  a little cloud cover remained.   (Our routes and how he climbed are listed below.)

We stopped climbing at about 5:15 after waiting out one brief rainstorm, and as sprinkles began to fall for a second time.  We were both feeling a little fatigued but willing to continue with plenty of food, water, and energy.  Because of the time, the pending second bout of rain, and both having evening engagements we hoped not to miss, we decided to call it a day.  Thirty-seven pitches according to the book.

We will return and finish the Lumpy 50 pitches-in-a day, SOON!  GREAT DAY!  Thanks Justin!

Femp - 5.9 with the Hurly Traverse Exit 5.7 (simul-climb 1 pitch - Justin's)
Loose Ends - 5.9 with the Cave Exit 5.7 (simul-climb 1 pitch - Quinn's)
Pear Buttress - 5.8 (1 pitch - Justin's)
Cheap Date 5.10b to Outlander's last pitch - 5.10c (1 pitch - Quinn's)
Osiris - 5.7 (Solo)
Bookmark Pinnacle - 5.8 (simul-climb 1 pitch - Justin's)
Melvins Wheel - 5.8 (simul-cimb 1 pitch - Quinn's)
White Whale - 5.7 (Solo)
RAINSTORM hit finishing the last 10 feet of the climb---waited it out
Hiatus 5.7 (simul-climb 1 pitch - Justin's)  Rock still a little moist so used rope...happy to have it
The Cottontail 5.6 (Solo)
Zingando 5.5 (Solo)

Climbs we were too lazy to finish on and ones we will add to the list.......
Batman and Robin (will add in next time)
Summer Breeze (will add in next time)
The Dog and Manifest Destiny (these routes are sort of the same-ish feel so left out)
The Great Dihedral (too lazy)
Climb of the Ancient Mariner (peaced out)
Magical Chrome Plated (if we need to)