|Jes' and her shadow. Pitch 13--Tom Evans Photo|
Roughly 10 hours and 19 minutes later, "I got the moves like Jagger" floated-- fully orchestrated-- back into my head as I clipped up the bolt ladder on the last pitch of the Nose. "Yes, yes I do" I thought, as I stomped on a bolt for a foot hold. Aid climbing!!
Jes reached the top anchors minutes after me. Simultaneous with her finish and clicking stop on the timer, she was handed a Murphy's Stout. Strange order of events.
|Instead of yelling on and off belay, we often yell this phrase.|
Piton Pete, a valley legend, cracked and passed one in our direction. He, his partner, and another gal from Joshua tree (whose 2 partners were still down below) were all at the last anchor of the Nose. The giant gong show included but was not limited to; 2 strewn single portaledges--both fully inflated, 5 ropes all in full use, wafts and visuals of well traveled poop bags, and a lottery winnings worth of climbing hardware. It was like a where's waldo game of climbing paraphernalia.
|Tom Evans Photo, Quinn leading above Eagle Ledge|
Jes stuck the King Swing first try, pulled me over with our short tag line and I took over the lead again off of Eagle Ledge. The last time we were here on a practice run Piton Pete was living on Eagle Ledge. We had to crawl through his nest after the King Swing. He even offered and made Jes coffee!
|Eagle Ledge on first go around, Jes finishing the King Swing|
These gentleman were awesome, full of enthusiasm given their previous epic evening. They didn't sleep much, having to work well into the night trying to free their haul bag, it snagged somewhere along the grey bands. Dave, from Colorado, was hollering with excitement the whole time Jes and I approached and passed! Thanks guys!
From there Jes and I just kept plugging and chugging. Somewhere around Camp V I realized that if we were off in less than 3 hours we would break the record. Somehow we had cut 4 hours off our previous attempt and were still feeling strong.
|Last pitch madness.|
I arrived to find the other 2 Joshua Tree girls (Bernadette, Mitzi, and Beth are their names), at the anchor starting the last pitch. "Do you mind if we pass?" I gasped. Jes and I had passed the girls on Sickle Ledge days before on our first run on Wednesday and they were quite friendly. This time I was met with a few F-bombs--- directed mostly at their predicament, not entirely me.
|The Nose essentially follows the sun/shade line|
|Sorry, no leather pants!|