Training Days of April

This isn't an exciting post.  Its a journal of my work-outs for the month of April, so far.  It helps me to keep track, keeping me honest.  This, to you, could help motivate.  If not, clicking that X in right hand corner of the screen takes you far far away in nanoseconds.

Monday April 2
Swim 1500
100 Sit-ups
100 Push-ups

Tuesday April 3
Swim 2000.  100 swim, 100 kick x 10
Climbed 31 Pitches in the gym.  Sets of 3, usually 5.12/11, 5.10, 5.9/8.  Sometimes down climbing.  Max set was 7 climbs.

Wednesday April 4
Road biked in Estes Park 15 miles
100 push-ups
100 sit-ups

Thursday April 5
Swim 1550- 200 warm-up. Kick 50.  6x50's on the 50. Kick 50.  500 straight. Kick 100.  100x 6 pulling breathing every 3-5-7.  Kick 50. 200 Cool-down. 


Small bouldering gym session.  Laps and hanging stomach curls, stretching too. 

Friday April 6
2 mile run up Deer Mountain---didn't  feel awesome.  Headache and lungs suck. 
Quick bouldering session at Nicky's boulders, a hard sloppy traverse.  Finger tips are lacking skin.  Climbing and swimming are hard on my shoulders and skin!  

Saturday April 7
Climbed 5 pitches at Combat rock.  I have climbed most of the routes at Combat, either top-rope or leading.  Always a good place to get your slab on!  
Saigon to Pearl Harbor 5.10d.  Back off the second pitch years ago whining to Douglas.  Glad to have redeemed myself this day.  Fun route all around, a little heady and a lot of foot work.
Nobody Here But Us Chickens 5.11dX  Top Roped this little edgy-broken-slabalicious climb.  Few small potato thin edges, many now broken.  5.12 slab.  No holds essentially.  Challenging.
Across Enemy Lines 5.11b.  Fun route, also have climbed this before.  
Tree Roof 5.8.  Super fun end of the day route, I remember when this was a sketchy lead for me.

Sunday April 8
Eldorado Canyon!  Sunny and warm, and PAcKED! 
West Buttress 5.9+.  Great time.  Led Pitch 1 and 4.  We were a party of 3.  Sweaty finger tips is rare for me, but lacking skin and the heat of the day made this finger tips crack start a little heads-up.  Off-width pitch was awesome.  Many options above but was convinced to stick with the original 5.7 pitch.  Wide-ish crack with jugs.
 Hair City 5.9R.  Challenging start.  Heads-up.  Last bolt you make a high step and run it out.  You can get some random gear in the next 50 feet to the anchor.  Great fun on the second half jug.

Monday April 9

Dustin in RMNP

 Rest day!  Worked from 12-8.

Tuesday April 10
3 mile run out by the YMCA.  Felt much better than previous run, lungs have a ways to go still though.
Yoga for an hour.  

Wednesday April 11
Worked a low ropes course all day in Denver for KMAC (Kent Mountain Adventure Center).
100 sit-ups
100 push-ups throughout the day

Thursday April 12
Jugging (pronounced with a silent "J") and rock climbing day --
Animal World in the Morning--Boulder Canyon
Animation 5.8, Climbed as a warm-up, then jugged with a backpack on twice.
Joint Venture 5.11a, climbed the first pitch then led up the unknown second pitch.  Jugged this also with a backpack on. 
Free Willie 5.11-, super fun climbing.  Deceivingly steep.  Also jugged this after climbing. 
Days of Future Passed 5.12-, need to return as I made this a 2 pitch climb.  Foot popped reaching out for the crimp.  Fun and enjoyable.  Boulder canyon is not a place I often climb, it is fun and good for your head at most cliffs.  (I would exclude Country Club from this generalization).
Hiking out a slipped on gravel, did the splits and banged my right ankle up pretty nicely.  
BRC in the afternoon
Dustin and I climbed many routes including a yellow, red, blue, green, and black.  Falls were had and forearms were swelling.   :)

Friday April 13
Friday the 13th.  This excites me.
2 mile sprint with Chelsea around the lumpy short loop.  Conveniently on a downhill portion I rolled my right ankle.  Lungs are getting there and I felt pretty quick.  Finished the run at a slower pace.   I know am at the coffee shop gimping around.  It hurts quite badly and I work all weekend.  I often roll my ankles, but the combo of a nice bone knocker yesterday and a sprain today has me a little worried.

Saturday April 14
Biked to pool.  Swim 1500.  Can't remember the exact work-out.  Rainy outside.  Glad to be back in Colorado.

Sunday April 15
Indoor bouldering session.  5 pull-ups, 10 push-ups, 20 sit-ups mixed in with routes on the wall.

Monday April 16
Biked to pool, swim 1800.  Warm-up, 12x50 on the :50, 700 straight, Cool down
Movement gym.  15 routes and bouldering sit-ups between routes.  Finger tips are wrecked.  Triceps feeling it.

Tuesday April 17

Home number 1.  Training to go home.  

Climbing in Eldo, West Ridge.  5 pitches, kind of a mellow day.  Rushed for time.  Wes is working in Denver and I wanted to have a "date" night.

Wednesday April 18th
Solo the first flatiron 3 times.  Felt good, was trying to go fast enough where breathing was difficult.  First lap took me 25 minutes, second 30, third 35.  Ankle is still swollen sore, fake run down between laps.

Balance and exercise

Last entry spoke of traveling and Trango.

I am having some anguish over aging and living at sea level the last 6 months.  Mainly, I am frustrated with my fitness, sea-level living, and lack of a training routine the last few months.  

My 2012 so far.......
January 20th - moved to North Cascades Institute for a 4 week Wilderness EMT/EMT-B course.
February 18th- 1pm completed course and tests, drove to Seattle, packed and arrived at airport
                         at 10pm for flight to Phoenix.
February 19- March 16- Climbing and adventuring in Phoenix, New Mexico, Nevada, Utah, and  
                      Colorado.  Driving with Prairie.  She dropped me off in Boulder on the 16th. 
March 18th- Back on the road with 8 seventh graders for a week long canyon trip in Utah.
March 24th- Returned from Utah, de-geared, re-packed for personal flight out.
March 26th- Flight to Seattle
March 28th- M.A.P.L.E (our sprinter van) packed up and headed East, Wes and I together after a
                     month apart.
March 29-30- Driving to Estes Park, Colorado.  Home.  Brief stop in Spokane to visit friends.
April 1st - Work at Ed's 6:30 am, unpack M.A.P.L.E, drive to Denver in the pm. 
April 2nd - In Denver for two days with Wes, he is working in Aurora through mid-May so staying
                   with him and training.

Wetsuitless at an exercise competition. 

This while also scheduling and planning a Yoga-Rock Climbing retreat for my company Dovetail Mountain Adventures.  Writing this helps me realize why I am lagging.
Well, I am home for awhile....2 months anyway, and need to really get on the training.  Yosemite in June!  

Photo Dan Gambino.  March bouldering in RMNP

Training.  What a fun time.  Seriously.  There is a wonderful line in "Eastbound and Down."  Ex-Pro football player turned small town gym teacher comments to his triathlon obsessed principle, "I am not trying to be the best at exercising, I play real sports!"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=De7rbB2bteE

I chuckle.  Wes uses this line on me all the time. 

My new years resolution for 2011 was to climb The Nose of El Cap in a day and place top 5 in my age group in a triathlon---in the same month.  I have placed before in triathlons, I just struggle with focusing on them solely.  I love climbing!
I wait tables and guide for a living, which means unless I am sleeping I am on my feet.  Swimming, biking, running, hiking, climbing, and working on my feet = really tired legs.   

I did not achieve that goal last year, partner changes and an adventure to the Cirque of the Unclimbable's stirred the pot.  

Wes and I on Lotus Flower Tower

This year, though, I have reminded myself of this lofty, obscure, and self-proclaimed goal.  Since I am training to climb the Nose in a day, what a better way to cross train then do high intensity activities such as swimming, biking, and running!

I hope to succeed at one or both this summer.  The logistics of the Nose, climbing 5.11 run-out or french-freeing fast is a certain challenge.   It is April, the trying hard and training harder has only just begun. 

Since January, I have been doing 50 push-ups or dips, 150 sit-ups a day, along with stretching and yoga daily.  Running and climbing happened in spurts during my EMT course.  Since February,  I have been climbing more, doing sprints at the track again, swimming, and hope to start biking now that I am in one place.  

The southwest road trip helped get me into long climbing days, but not as high intensity as I would like.  Jes Meiris (my Nose partner this June) and I have a goal of moving for 8 hours of activity.  I need to up my heart rate for longer.  Waiting tables keeps me moving for 12 hours, but again not intense enough.

Jes climbing at Shelf Road

Enough with the computer, exercising awaits.

Trango!

Exhausted.
I have just returned from an exhausting 6 day course with eight 7th graders.  We explored the canyons of Utah while shivering in our sleeping bags through unexpected snow and 12 degree temperatures.  It was awesome.  The kids' attitude and willingness to push on was impressive!!

Skyline traverse of the Organ Mountain.

Previous to that, I had a climbing-packed, month long road trip throughout Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada and Utah.  Wes and I attempted a traverse of the Organ Mountains near Las Cruces, a long day of many ups and downs.  Our planned bivy was awesome, but an unplanned flu for Wes forced us down on day two.  The descents of each individual peak (something like 16 in all if completed) were the most time consuming.  Overall, a good trip.  We replaced a lot of webbing, sussed out the many rappels, etc.  We started up Gertch's Folly, the buttress in the left side of the photo, and traversed across about 1/2 way before descending down a horrific cactus ridden gully.  Reading summit logs further along the traverse, it seems another party has attempted (unsuccessfully?) from the other direction. 

Messing around on an upper pitch of Lonestar! 

In Nevada, I spent two weeks in Red Rocks.  Highlight climbing was an adventurous route in Black Velvet Canyon--- Texas Hold 'em to Texas Tower Direct, to Lonestar (a different version of "3 of a kind").  All together a 21 pitch day by the book.  My partner Luke and I linked and stretched as many pitches as possible, some spicy pitches--some stellar! 

From there the road trip was to bring me back home to Colorado.  One of my favorite climbing partners, Prairie and I, stopped for a quick morning climb in Zion.  Our drive was to take us from Vegas through Zion, Monument Valley and Grand Gulch.  I wanted to check out water and road conditions of the canyon I would be guiding.

Prairie and her Elvis climbing attire!

In Zion, Prairie and I climbed the Headache and the Migraine.  Wes and I simul-climbed the Headache a few years ago, but it was nice to take my time---enjoy the stellar climbing!

All this climbing talk brings me to some exciting news!  I have been climbing my heart out for over a decade and this February I applied to be a Trango athlete.  Trango weeded through a bazillion applications of more accomplished and much stronger climbers, and yet chose me to represent them!!!!

I am thrilled to be apart of this Colorado based and thoughtful company.  I am over-joyed to share my passion with others, to be recognized as an ambassador for the sport, and to represent Trango!

Dan Gambino Photo

Thank you to everyone at Trango! (www.trango.com)!

This IPA is for you!

Strong heads a-butting.

Alex knocking me straight. 

I am struggling.
I struggle with my voice blending into thin air among conversations.
I struggle with the question of passion versus life path.  Yes versus.
I struggle with speaking and not being believed.

I write to resolve myself of these thoughts, I write openly for constructive criticism.  I post photos to lighten the mood.  

When we are involved in a dialogue with one another, why do we exert effort with a nod or "uh, huh" yet cannot exert enough effort to genuinely listen.  Understanding and openness is crucial.  

In this dialogue, why is it when something contradicts our thought, perception, or formed knowledge, we are sometimes unable to constructively respond.  For certain friends and dialogue we are open to ideas and differing opinions with an expressed willingness to understand.  Other friends and personalities we seem to have an immediate negative shut-off valve.  This person is certainly incorrect, uninformed, wrong, and not worth listening to.  

Wes and Craig talking it out. 

I have experienced a bit of this lately and find extreme frustration.  It causes me to reflect on my own actions, my own demeanor.  I know when treated with a disbelieving shrug or confidence of 'wrongness' I feel the need to prove otherwise.  Not that I am necessarily right, but to show others the possibility of some validity in my knowledge.  I am not just talking lies.

These experiences provoke insecurities.         

Is it a valid game?  Obviously these types of systems bother me, but am I reading something more than people are actually projecting?
Should I mellow out, brushing off others confident knowing? 

It is an unwelcome dissonance that I am experiencing. If my hope is for others to understand and consider the possibility of my knowledge to be useful, respectable, and expandable, I need to do the same for them.

Cake eating

I don't really enjoy cake.  I do enjoy cookies and ice cream though!  "Having my ice cream and eating it too," doesn't really have as much of a profound impact.  One MUST eat the ice cream, otherwise it will just melt all over everything and make a complete mess.

I digress.

I just spent the last moldy and damp 2 days hanging out with 25 females and 2 males at a retreat center in north Washington.  All of us part of the Fall 2011 cohort in a variety of Antioch University in Seattle, Master of Arts program.   It was an enlightening and frustrating two days.  Mixed emotions about why I am starting this journey, and a bit long winded as conversation and the flow of ideas are concerned.  I look forward to the challenges classroom immersion provides.  This weekend should be knowledge packed, as I have four 9-530 days in a row.  Topics include Methods in Sustainability and Systems change.
http://antiochseattle.edu/academics/enviro/index.html

Wes is currently working in Rapid City for the next 10 days or so.  After which we will meet up in Yosemite valley.  This is where the cake part comes in.  I am attempting to go to graduate school, climb my ass off, and take a WEMT course to further my guiding company and other climbing related pursuits.

Home

Countless e-mails to various environmental non-profits returned fruitless new vocation avenues.  I haven't given up hope, and I am aware that phone calls and hand shakes make all the difference!!  I selfishly admit that I would also like to continue this climbing thing.  I am getting a better head these days and the injections of Chromosome 19 (the try hard gene) are seemingly working!  I recognize that this is a slim pursuit as far as money and sponsorship go, but I don't want to NOT try! 

For now the schedule and work load of graduate school is conducive to this idealist lifestyle.  Monetary funds, thanks to "Maple" (our new home on wheels) are quite limited, but I think with a little writing or creativity funds may procure.  If not, I will search harder for work....either that or delve further into the student loans!  HA!

(Pictures of van to come).

So, while I half-heartedly explore non-profits and environmentally based organizations that may have openings in grant writing, policy research, event planning, education programming, etc.   I continue to pursue climbing goals, graduate school, and personal company goals.  My plate is full and Wes is amazingly supportive.  He is ready to settle down, have a garden, a house, and a mailbox.  I just can't settle yet.    I am not exhausted yet.

We will see if I maintain!!!

9 fingers to type!!

CRIPES!
I have driven to Littleton, Sante Fe, and now flying to MSP.  All of this in attempt to FINALLY end the talk and walk the walk.
I, Quinn Lenae Brett, want a Dodge Sprinter van.
Preferably one with a sliding door that actually works and a dealership that cares that I want to buy it.

As my lovely boyfriend could have easily warned me, if he were not traveling for the last 3 weeks for work, "that is New Mexico."  Sante Fe dealership a JOKE.  How about we call it another life lesson!!
Really, it is it's own can of worms.

SUSAN YOU ARE AMAZING!  TOMMY, you too for answering so many freeking questions!!

So, after I was an IDIOT and sold my car to guy, but didn't realize I didn't have the Title, I have been waiting for 5 days for Toyota to send it to me!  Not only have I NOT sold the car, but now totally lost the sale.  AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Just more frustrating that I expected things to happen, and waited patiently for the mail to come but 5 days later (I fly out tomorrow so of course it will come while I am gone).

I also smooooooooooooooshed my finger hiking.  HIKING.  Wesley would have also said, "well, thats why we don't like hiking."  I know it looks harmless, but from mid-knuckle down finger is black and blue and doesn't bend.

He wouldn't have really said that, but it just goes to show how much he dislikes hiking.

Smoooshed finger.  Can't climb.  Supposed to leave for Yosemite today with my new sprinter van, sans Corolla and ready to climb body.  OPS!

Not happening.  Instead I fly to Minnesota, as Meridee works for Delta and gave me a buddy pass.  Hope to for realZ by a van, drive it home, heal finger, and CLIMB in yosemite come FRIDAY!!!!!!!

Maybe this one???

Life is not difficult.  It is fun, but it certainly is PACKED and slightly hard to manage!!  I am fortunate.  I  do realize, but finger injury and unfortunate events do still impede upon morale.

Oh, also gave my first slideshow the other day.  I think it went well.  Presentation okay, everyone enjoyed music and photos!!!!

Self-Promotion

Blogging.  I have had a few lame attempts.  I am good at keeping a journal, but blogging?
It is time again to try.
I did great with our expedition blog, until the expedition was over.  Craig was really good about writing, so I kind of just let him run the show.
This?
This blog is mine.  No one to relinquish my laziness too.
Personal blog= Self Promotion.  Self Promotion= Less time actually playing and more time talking about playing.
I have my concerns with self promotion. 

As my good friend Karl (pictured) once said, "Enough about me talking about me, let's hear what you have to say about me."

I am not the greatest writer nor am I sold on the idea that other people might have an interest in reading about Quinn Lenae Brett.  Yet, I have some personal goals that I would like to accomplish and I think a blog would help.

58 Degree water.  No wetsuit!

One of those goals is climbing related.  I am trying to climb harder these days, more importantly, get my name out there.  Since I don't live in Boulder, have yet to go to the ever important 'Trade Show' in Salt Lake City, nor do have a 5.13 climbing resume......the process is slow.

Other problems.  I drink more wine and margaritas than I should.  I also am not entirely focused on climbing as a profession, for a few reasons.  One, competing in triathlons and hand-stands contests are equally as interesting.  I am quite good at them too.  WATCH OUT!!!!

Andrew Barnes, Wes and I--Handstand Across the World

B.), I don't have rich parents who are willing to financially support me, nor do I play the lotto.    Last, work is a must.  I tend to LIKE to work also (shh, don't tell anyone).  When my bank account gets to a low number I don't like, I find work to beef it back up to an adequate number.  

This all takes away from the full dirtbag lifestyle of living years on the road climbing to my hearts content.

Oh the sights!

I do, however, climb and enjoy climbing immensely.  It is a physical and mental challenge unlike any other.  I have traveled to cool places, met some fabulous people and seen vistas I otherwise would never see.  See below. 

Onto the self-promotion part.  I have a few 5.12 climbs under my belt.  I may hold a few female run/solo records in RMNP.  That is if a female record is different than a males records, if not, I am pretty darn happy with my personal records on certain ridges and solo's in the park.

Enough of that.  Time for bed.